Thread: Everybody that is currently building a car...

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Originally Posted by cffisher

boo boo's suck. I get them and wonder where my eyes were the first time around.

It was worse then that, Charlie----I banged into the back of the car with a piece of tubing I was bringing in the door---snow on my boots makes for a slippery floor!!!! But then I've known that for years, haven't I?????

Hey Dave wasn't boo boo that little bear we watched on Saturday morning back in the 50's & 60's.

Got a little linkage glued together tonight.

Originally Posted by pro70z28

Hey Dave wasn't boo boo that little bear we watched on Saturday morning back in the 50's & 60's.

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Yeah, that was Yogi's buddy out in Jellystone park! Heard he gave up stealing picnic baskets and joined a commune in Montana!!!

Not much on the Nova today just mounted and wired the Battery cut off switch by the tail lights.

Got more done on the stomp shear truck this weekend.
Rolled on it's own wheels for the first time today.
Got a bunch of cleaning up to do & a fair amount of welding. Still have to build the tray or table to catch the sheared material & an extended gauge.

It fits in Photoshop. Hope it fits in the real world.

Got a little further.
Mounting pads welded in the corners.
Frame for the tray to catch the sheets as they are sheared.
Got a start on the extended gauge.
Most of the gussets are welded in.
Lock for the foot pedal.
Pretty close to tear down, clean up & paint.

Looks great Pro, anxious to see it all done and painted up with the shear mounted on it! Sure will make it easier to use when you can move it around and get it out of the way when not in use!

I finally got the truck for the shear done, but for a few punch list things. Now I just have to get it mounted under the shear.
Got some paint on it. Hard to believe it's still March. One good rain & it'll be time to mow.


Painted it a light blue & ivory hammered finish to match the shear


Once the shear is bolted down I'll print out & apply the rulers for the guides. Still have a fence to make.


Still have a rubber pad to glue & screw to the foot pedal.


The table frame bolts on. It has to go on after the shear is mounted to clear the shear's linkage. I'll put an aluminum top on the table when it's all bolted together for the last time.



Now I have to get a service truck down here to load the shear on the deal.

Finding out that TIGing will require some time practicing.

It's a little tricky with the preflow and ever worse remembering post flow before pulling away. Still havent got the foot pedal (amp control) figured out so I treat it like I'm at the track, wide open. And your not kidding about keeping the joints tight. But I'm slowly getting there. A lot more practice before I trust myself with the headers I spent so much time on.

Now I'm tring to find an good torque angle wrench. I'm not a professional mechanic so I really don't want to spend the money on the Snap On Tech wrench but at this time it's looking like my best choice.

David

When TIG'ging, I like to think of it as an electric torch: just like acetylene. About the biggest difference being to be sure to wear gloves, else you can get shocked by your filler rod! Oh, and you can change the 'flame' with the pedal, how nice would that be with acetylene!

Yeah, I use to use an acetelyne torch quite a bit many years ago. But making the primary tubes just right has been a little tricky. I tried backing the heat off so I wouldn't have too much penetration inside the tubes. Also using a purge set up. It seems to help. I think it all boils down to getting the technique down.

David

rule of thumb---amps = metal thickness------.065 equals 65 amps----outside of bends are streched thinner so will need to back off the pedal a little--my welder has a pulse control and that helps me for timing the dabs and lets the puddle cool a little---

As I've TIGed I find myself cranking the amps higher & higher. Now it's set on 180 (it's a synrowave 180) I do all the controlling with the pedal. Even sheetmetal. That might not work for everybody, but it seems to work best for me. I just watch the puddle & adjust the amps as needed as I go. Works especially well on aluminum. Not a good idea (gaps that is) as a general rule but they can be filled pretty easy with a wide amp range too, just watch the puddle.

can you weld a beer can at 180 amps?

I find that on anything of a staedy thickness--tubing--not like welding a braket to the middle of something--that using the max setting at just over what I need gives me the widest range for the travel of the pedal---using the full setting makes the pedal work like a on/off switch and doesn't let me DRIVE the welder with the pedal????

I have found that welding on the outside of the bend(thinnest portion of tube) to a full thickness straight piece has a tendacy to shrink the tube and fks the fitment