Thread: Everybody that is currently building a car...

Tweet

Wood is for furniture, not Hot Rods!!!! Replace it all with some mild steel tubing, flat plate, gussets as required!!!!!!

BTW, Welcome to CHR, good having you here! New people always bring new ideas and a healthy dose of motivation for the rest of us!!!!

Originally Posted by rspcoach

I'm new to this forum, but I'd like some input form those who have repalced wood with steel in early Chevys. I picked up a very clean 31 three window Chevy coupe and I want to make a street rod out of it. What are some thoughts on leaving the original wood in as opposed to replacing it all with sheet metal and steel. Any feedback will be appreciated.

Welcome to CHR! You'll probably get a lot more response to your question if you start a new thread instead of tacking on to this old generic thread, plus it'll be way easier to find in the future when you want to add to it - just go to your "Profile" and click "Show All Started Threads". I'd probably put it into "Shop Talk", but you could also go with "Hot Rod Lounge" or start a build log. Just click the "Forums" tab at the top (may have to do it twice, as the first one often goes to "Home"), scroll down to the forum where you want your thread, and once in that forum click "New Thread" in the upper left. If you want to go with "Shop Talk" here's a link to get you there - Shop Talk

I'd definitely look at replacing the wood with metal, something like 1" square tube, with some wood added in key places where you'll need tack points for upholstery. I don't recall the specifics, but one of the monthly magazines (Rod & Custom, Street Rodder or Hot Rod) did a series not too long ago on replacing the internal brace structure on the later Chevy's ('36 to mid-'40's) which had extensive wood bracing. It probably wouldn't take too much to find it if you want a reference.

Again, welcome to the forum. Looking forward to following your build!!

Originally Posted by rspears

Welcome to CHR! You'll probably get a lot more response to your question if you start a new thread instead of tacking on to this old generic thread, plus it'll be way easier to find in the future when you want to add to it - just go to your "Profile" and click "Show All Started Threads". I'd probably put it into "Shop Talk", but you could also go with "Hot Rod Lounge" or start a build log. Just click the "Forums" tab at the top (may have to do it twice, as the first one often goes to "Home"), scroll down to the forum where you want your thread, and once in that forum click "New Thread" in the upper left. If you want to go with "Shop Talk" here's a link to get you there - Shop Talk

I'd definitely look at replacing the wood with metal, something like 1" square tube, with some wood added in key places where you'll need tack points for upholstery. I don't recall the specifics, but one of the monthly magazines (Rod & Custom, Street Rodder or Hot Rod) did a series not too long ago on replacing the internal brace structure on the later Chevy's ('36 to mid-'40's) which had extensive wood bracing. It probably wouldn't take too much to find it if you want a reference.

Again, welcome to the forum. Looking forward to following your build!!

Hey rspcoach, welcome to CHR!! I agree with everything Roger said about starting a new thread! In the meantime, here's the article in Streetrodder he was talking about. 1935 Chevy Gets Wood Removed- Street Rodder Magazine

Looking forward to pics and stuff!!

Originally Posted by brickman

This is intended to be a thread to give everybody a chance to post updates on how your ride is going, for instance hows the Camaro coming along Pro70? Or your '41 Ford truck Chevy37? Or your '50 chevy Matt167? '51 studdy, how you doing? I know there are more. There was a thread for updating but it disappeared I think.

I myself have gotten my MII IFS in and detailed w/R&P steering in place, aquirred a 350 4 bolt main that is in the hot tank as we speak. I am currently finishing off the install of my new Caddy tilt/telescoping steering column. Next is putting the rear end under the car and ....Heaven forbid....Picking out some wheels!!! I can't wait!

So talk to me guys (and Gals) how you are doing, I want to know.

My 66 Chevelle is getting a facelift, but not as fast as I'd like. I started converting the M-21 to a 700R4 due to a left leg issue (age). My granddaughter wanted me to teach her to do a summersault. I tried to teach her, but ended up tearing my rotator cuff so the car has been sitting on a lift for 5 months while my shoulder heals. The transmission and cooler are installed but getting the linkage the way I want it is proving to be tough. Not because of the shoulder, but because of the trifocals I wear that won't let me focus on the small areas that need attention. So how is the project going? Slowly, just like the rest of my life!

Only way I've found to battle the bifocals and trifocals is a set of off the rack reading glasses who's focal distance is the distance where I want to be able to see most clearly. Along with a magnifying lens, they're the only things that make welding possible around here anymore, plus a different strength pair for doing wiring, carb linkage, etc.....

Dave I too have to wear glass to read and close work. The other day I wanted to weld up the exhaust on my 72PU. No mater what I did I couldn't see what I was doing changed lenses in helmet adjusted light and dark . Nothing would work...Finely found out I had the wrong glasses on.. Getting old is not cool.

Originally Posted by cffisher

Dave I too have to wear glass to read and close work. The other day I wanted to weld up the exhaust on my 72PU. No mater what I did I couldn't see what I was doing changed lenses in helmet adjusted light and dark . Nothing would work...Finely found out I had the wrong glasses on.. Getting old is not cool.

Been there, done that Charlie!!!! I've got 3 different pair of various strength for various things in my tool box, plus my "normal" bifocals that I use for everyday stuff.... Oh yeah, and another set with just the long distance correction on them that I use for keeping an eye on them pesky stage and go lights at the drag strip.... Would sure be crazy to grab the wrong pair when trying to stage the car, probably a rendition of the old Mr. Magoo show!!!!!!!

Working on a 1939 Ford four door sedan for some time now. How does the time fly? Purchased a 1994 Cutlass police car with a fuel injected LT1 and 4L60e electronic 4 speed automatic and pretty much gutted it. I had the computer flashed, harness cut and installed it with a Mustang II front suspension/power steering. Beefed up the frame with rectangular tubing and capped it. Has a Currie 9" Ford rearend with 3.89:1 and street Detroit locker. Also has airbag suspension in the front, shaved door handles and BMW front bucket seats. Most of the hard stuff is done. I have little body work left and all the uphulstry to do. I've done all the work myself so far but will have to farm out the uphulstry (maybe). Anyway, been almost 10 years in the working. Car runs really good but since I don't start it much and I'm in California (wierd gas additives), I have to pull the injectors and clean them regularly along with the electric fuel pump, which is in the tank.

I figured it was time to update a bit. Winter is finally over.....I think.

So I finally have a complete set of wheels. A complete rear with center section from Roush Yates with locker. Just bought a set of custom made 40 lb locker springs from Ron Sutton. Apparently mine was used on the big track and has the 125 lb springs. I set the floater up with GT series rotors and C6 calipers. Only recently I found out that Wilwood no longer makes these rotors.....but found out that Coleman will make a set of custom rotors cheaper anyway. I have installed the complete Ridetech True Turn system and took it for a spin with the front wheels mounted. Holy cow thing handles. It made my RX8 feel like a pig. I'm presently working on installing the 9". I making a custom torque arm suspension and I'm going to integrate a watts link using the upper air coil over mount. I'm using johnny joints like I did on Dustin's El Camino.

David

A few more of the rear.

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg

I had to modify the arch on the front inner fenders for tire clearance. I'm not quite done. Want to be sure I have it where I want it before I pull the inners for welding.

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg

I used the factory leaf spring pocket for the front mount. Bought the heavier tube adapters from Ballistic Fabrication. They cater to the off road world. Johnny joints were from Spohn Performance. They're slightly smaller than Ballistics johnny joints.

And I was trying to get an idea of available space for the torque arm. I bought the slider tube directly from BMR.

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg

Nice! Those are some big meats!

After half a day fretting over cutting the trunk pan I finally just did it. Lol. You see, the Ridetech airbar set up is suppose to allow fitment without cutting the trunk pan. But the only way I could see it working was by moving the rear end forward over an inch. It just didn't look right not centered in wheel opening. Besides, this way I can come up with some sort of access panel allowing rebound dampening adjustments from inside the trunk instead of crawling under car during track days.

image.jpg

image.jpg

Originally Posted by falconvan

Nice! Those are some big meats!

Ha ha. It'll be my luck they stop making them now. Lol. I think they still make next size up....345's but very limited vendors. And I'd rather stay away from anything under 300 tread wear except for maybe a set of spare 200 thread wear track tires.