Thread: Everybody that is currently building a car...

Tweet

looking good don, and maybe i'm missing something , but where are you gonna put the tank vent tube? a piece of neoprene hose at the fuel pump to let the motor move will work. you have a lot of choice of inline fuel filters you could use. for the street most any good filter will work.

Kinda like this;

Also, on some fuel pumps you can change the "clocking" on the bottom half.

Thanks Bob and lt1s10, the tubing idea looks like an easy fix for the vibration problem. As far as the vent tube goes, I discussed this with the guy at Rock Valley and I plan on just drilling a hole throught the inner fender panel and running a piece of tubing from the tank into the right rear wheel well, up high away from the tire. My wheels, for whatever reason, are out a little far from the inside of the fender wells anyway and my tires are just barely covered by the outer edge of the fenders. I went with the 8" rear precisely to avoid having to narrow a 9" rear and I measured a '30-'31 Model A with an 8" rear and exactly the same size tires that I have and they fit nicely. Either my offset is too far out and/or the '29 body is narrower than the '30-'31 body because what was supposed to be a perfect fit turned out to be just a little too wide, but I am not going to change the wheels unless I hit the big jackpot so I can use the extra 1" clearance inside the fender to vent the tank and anyway if the tubing hits the tire it is soft and will just "wear to size"! How come I get stuck on the simple things like a piece of tubing? I was thinking there had to be some sort of braided line for the fuel filter. I know I need a filter because I used to have a rusty tank in my MG Midget and even after I had it "cooked out" I still had to change the filter frequently and twice on my back along the side of an Interstate! The new tank should start out clean (?) but who knows what is in there. At least the stainless tank will never rust! Thanks for the picture Bob!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Here's a pic from the other end of that fuel line, next to the tank. This is a spin on type filter complete with the mounting flange you can barely see, it's a GM piece if I remember correctly, but unfortunately I don't have a record of the part number or application. If you're friendly with a GM parts guy he might have a clue. I really dislike those cheesy looking inline filters next to or near the carb.

You should rinse out the fuel tank before final hook up and firing, even with the filter it should be done.

i would put the fuel filter between the fuel pump and carb. a lot to choose from. with the new tank ,you should be good to go. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...5&Ne=1&NeXID=1

I use the inline long tube cleanable filters, very easy to mount them along the frame rail. Sometimes it's tough to find a suitable spot for a canister type filter.

I agree Don, where can you go to find a brain trust for hotrods better than here?

Don: Nice tank. How many gallons does it hold?


Stainless will outlast the car. I ran mufflers on my '27 made by Stainless Specialities. They are still in perfect shape after all these years and miles.


Don

Thanks Denny, I missed seeing that.

Don

Bob you got me worried now, I don't really want to take the tank out again to rinse it out and I did not want to put gas into it until everything was set up because I did not want gas fumes in the tank while working on it. I think I will just trust on two filters one before the pump and look for something nice looking between the pump and the carb. Actually I don't see what you have against the filter before the carb. I use to think the old glass filters in the Fords were really neat to see what what was coming through. I prefer to have a see-through filter between the pump and the carb but I had no idea there were such extensive filters back at the tank, that looks pretty thorough to me. Echoing Brick, this Forum is pretty amazing considering the experience available from all of you. I was just looking back through the last several pages and note that Dave is now setting up 461 heads on a SBC after all those posts on the Blue Oval! Are the track rule limited to SBC 400s for the tracks where he runs? I guess there are many different Racing Associations with 4 cyl, V8 etc. but it does sound strange with Dave picking up 461 heads. I had a set but thought they were too high on the CR for the street and the set I had did not have any accessory holes so I sold them to a local circle track guy here. I guess they are second only to a set of 461X heads but I have never seen the 461X heads, only read about them. Well thanks for the help and ideas. I will check with the Rock Valley folks and hopefully they cleaned the tank out when they leak tested it?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Since I am in the Marine business, I have always used a spin on water separating fuel filter like the ones used on boats. The one I use is a 10 micron that catches almost everything, and I mount them before the pump. I always use electric pumps, and these pumps hate dirt.

Every 6 months or so I toss the old filter and spin on a new one.


Don

Itoldyouso, That's very interesting, a good filter before the pump would take care of it. I'll look into a marine type filter. Any part no. or brand to look for?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don our Wissota (sanctioning body) requires a max cubes of 360 cubes. A couple of my long time sponsors prefer a chebbie engine in the car, so chebbie engines it is..... Would love to put one of my beloved blue ovals in it, but the big check from a sponsor weighs more on the decision then my personal brand preference!!! I did acquire a set of 461X heads a couple years back at a swap meet and have allready sent them off to be magnaflux inspected and then they will be used on the primary engine. Hope to have 2 complete engines ready for the car, as well as one that shall we say enters into some of the grey areas in the rule book.......

As far as your tank, before you make your final connections to the fuel system and are ready for fuel you could fill it with lacquer thinner and let it soak for awhile, then drain the lacquer thinner out and dry the tank with compressed nitrogen from a cylinder with a low pressure regulator. We use a similar setup on our pit cart for racing to run impact wrenches at the track. Nitrogen as you well know is a very dry gas and will remove all residue from the tank. You would need to regulate the pressure to less then probably 15 psi or so, but it will do a very good job of purging the system prior to it's intial filling. We do this on all our race cars after they have been sitting over the winter.

I have gotten away from the see-thru filters in the fuel system because of the inherent fire hazard should the glass or plastic container get broken. As I said earlier I use the long inline washable element filters with AN fittings now for race cars and hot rods. I also either use hard line or stainless braided lines and avoid rubber hoses like the plague!!!!! A bit more expensive, but the increased safety IMO is well worth it. Whenever I do have to run an electric pump, I also use an oil pressure shut off switch to shut off the pump as an added safety factor...... Racing has made me a bit paranoid on some of the safety issues, I guess. Still the scariest thing that can happen on a race car, Hot Rod, or any type of car is FIRE!!!!! I don't mind spending the extra $$$$ on a car to make the fuel system safe....

YEp fire scary!! I think Denny made this little fella!!

An old remedy to cool the fuel and prevent vapor lock was always to clip clothespins to the gas line at or near the carb. The pins would absorb heat from the fuel line. I wonder if vapor locking is still a problem with carburetored engines.