Thread: burning rubber with a turbo glide trany+283 motor with a 4 barrel.

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Peace,

i heard that if i stop my car and put her ( i nicknamed my car old Betsy ) if i stop her and put her in overdrive and slam the pedal to the floor i will blow my trany?! is that true? exactly what effects would that cause. i have a 'lead foot' and i feel that having lubricatrion in the gas will keep me from harming old betsy. p.s. my car ( many of you know ) is a 57 Bel Air Sedan.

later

If you have a turbo glide (or even a power glide), you do not have an overdrive to put it into.

When you do break it (and you will trying to show-off) keep in mind the parts to repair either transmission are VERY expensive and labor by one of us old timers who actually know how to rebuild it will not be cheap either.

Yes those trannys did not get the Trouble-glide name for nothing.. By now its gone, if you've been nuetral dropping it or some other trans torture. They Ain't cheap and virtually no commercial trans shop in this area will do one. I did my last one in the early seventies..

Yeah, what they said. There is no reason to do a drop anyway. Want to show off? build a better motor.

How can you put it in overdrive when it doesn't have one? Just curious.

Yeah, The Chevy powerglide and turbo glide are 2 spds, low and high but there both usally pretty low, they are on my '51 and the old glides can't take the beating, you could probably order a drag racing powerglide from summit and bolt that up and that tranny would take the beating and if you did blow that tranny, parts are available from summit to rebuild that although they are geared more for drag racing but, you should be able to get away with using it. Another option is the TH350 transmission, would take it also.

I don't think I would neutral drop any tranny. A hole shot with a line lock, Power brake it or trans brake so everything is (Preloaded), but never drop it in gear under power. KABOOOOOOOM.

war

I know 57 chevy's they are heavy and will not
take that kind of abuse,you need to change the
trany and the rear end if you are going to put
in neutral then slam in gear.if you want a fast 57
insert 427 under hood.

Peace,

i plan on keeping it as original as posable. so i cant slam the pedal to the floor even in 1st gear? my car weights about 1 and 3/4 tons. also curious would it be better to use detergent or non detergent oil? and how does the engine restore oil work? does it work well?

;ater

Originally posted by dotgone
war

I know 57 chevy's they are heavy and will not
take that kind of abuse,you need to change the
trany and the rear end if you are going to put
in neutral then slam in gear.if you want a fast 57
insert 427 under hood.

Quote:
_________________________________________

"burning rubber with a turbo glide trany+283 motor
with a 4 barrel."
_________________________________________

.... ....now, that's funny....

Daver.

".......so i cant slam the pedal to the floor even in 1st gear?....."

Kid it's your car and you can do anything you want with it.

Honestly I thing most of the old timers (geezers) myself included found out how weak thing were by going out and breaking them. Now here's the problem as I see it from this and previous posts. You have a 57 Chevy 4 dr (either a hard top or sedan.. you've listed it as both) that's pretty original with a questionable frame, stock drive train (which is likely pretty tired unless it's been gone thru sometime in it's life) brakes that were somewhat marginal even when they were new, and needs a paint job.

Now you want to drive it like it's a real hot-rod, sorry but you can't have it both ways. You can either drive the car like it was intended and enjoy it for what it is, or you can take it out and break it and up-grade it as needed (originality out the window).

As far as detergent or non-detergent oil, unless the car has been parked for the last 30 years, chances are that it's been run with detergent oil since the 60's.and there's no sense going back to an inferior oil at this point.

Finally, if you think your engine needs restore what it likely really needs is to be pulled out and rebuilt.

...........and good luck findin' "original" rings, bearings, gaskets, etc. He He HE

Oh and to add to mike P's comment. Your car would have a higher value as a hot rod than a restore because of it being a 4dr and if it's a real hardtop, then even more so to rodders, and your car dosen't have a posi so, you would wear out your rear tires unevenly and if your getting vintage New original ( like what Coker sells ), there around 100$ a tire and if you wear out 1 rear tire, ya gotta replace both rear tires if not all tires. What you should do in my oppinion cause you like original look and feel and want a car that could preform is make a restomod, newer more reliable drivetrain and suspension but the same look and feel it had when it left the factory and, if reselling at any time, these tend to bring in more $$$ than true resto's or rods for that fact, really your only options are restomod, Rod/custom, or original and if you want 100% original, your gonnahave to give up wanting to burn the rubber cause the drivetrain woulden't take it. Your car would have to # match to be worth alot as an original.

Originally posted by pro70z28
...........and good luck findin' "original" rings, bearings, gaskets, etc. He He HE

Actually it's not really a problem finding those things. When the time comes for a rebuild, let me know.

Originally posted by pro60chevy
Actually it's not really a problem finding those things. When the time comes for a rebuild, let me know.

But they have ta' be Original 47 year old parts. 47 year old cork gaskets in yellowed cellophane wrapper. Or did they come in a cardboard envelope?