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Thread: My '34 Project
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
    Henry Rifle is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford Low Boy w/ZZ430 Clone
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    My '34 Project

     



    Some photos of My '34 Project
    http://www.members.cox.net/otb_vigil...etrod/rod.html

    The website ain't fancy. I'm building a rod, not a web.

    The paint is '96 Corvette Competition Yellow - Sherwin-Williams Ultra 7000 basecoat with S-W ULTRA 7000 Super Glamour Clearcoat. The clear went on so slick I'm not going to sand or buff it - at least on the frame. Put the motor in yesterday, and by next weekend, the rolling chassis is going to be complete. Then I throw a tarp over it and get to blocking the body, followed by blocking the body, with occasional time-outs to block the body . . .
    Last edited by Henry Rifle; 09-10-2004 at 07:06 PM.

  2. #2
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
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    Great looking car, Henry!!!! Congrats on an excellent job. Going to be a really fine ride when you are done.
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  3. #3
    hambiskit is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Nice....very nice.
    Do you think you'll have to block the body?
    Jim

  4. #4
    Bib_Overalls's Avatar
    Bib_Overalls is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 32 Ford Roadster/26 T Sedan
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    Impressive. Can you tell us who supplied your body and chassis (manufactures)? You are going to like the ladder bars. I have them on my 32 Ford roadster and they really hook up.
    An Old California Rodder
    Hiding Out In The Ozarks

  5. #5
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
    Henry Rifle is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford Low Boy w/ZZ430 Clone
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    The chassis is a Pete & Jakes. If I ever do another rod, it will have a P&J chassis too.

    The body is Gibbon. If I ever do another rod, it will NOT have Gibbon body. This is generally why:

    Fiberglass 5 Window Coupe Body

    I'm probably going to have to block the body . . .

  6. #6
    pro70z28's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 70 Camaro Z-28 Now/40 Chevy Back Then
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    Very nice project. Congrats on a great job. Just think how nice it'll be when you block the body. block the body N' block the body.
    "PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
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    >>>>>>

  7. #7
    Don Shillady's Avatar
    Don Shillady is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Henry, Nice pictures, nice car. Let me ask a dumb question. I am planning my engine installation and the Speedway catalog shows a chain mount bracket to lift the engine by just bolting the bracket to four bolt holes in the intake manifold. In the case of an aluminum intake that means four bolts in aluminum are holding the entire weight of the engine. Before I try this tell me this will not strip the tapped holes in the intake? Maybe I should just use the old cast iron intake temporarily just long enough to install the engine? Your pictures show your crane but not the way in which the chain was attached to the engine.

    Don Shillady
    Retired Scientist/teen rodder

  8. #8
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
    Henry Rifle is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Don,

    I don't like to lift with the intake because I usually have the transmission bolted on which makes the intake too far forward to balance the load. . . it goes nose up/tail down. I just rig a chain harness using the bolt holes in the front and back of the heads, or just the front of the heads and a loop around the tailshaft.

    If you just snug up the bolts (or nuts if you use studs), the plate will lift the engine just fine. Each of the bolts only has to lift 130 lbs or so.

    I also made a po-boy chain lift. The strut is a piece of scrap heavy-wall 1-1/2" tubing and the tabs are 1/8" steel stock. I attach a lift ring to the top in in whichever hole it takes to balance, and attach four chains to the tabs on the bottom with those screw-type chain links. 3/8" bolts through the chain to the heads, and you've got a pretty good lift made from scraps.

    See drawing (not to scale). The tube is equal to the length of the engine from front of heads to back of heads.

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