In his book "How to Build a Traditional Ford Hot Rod" Mike Bishop explains a process for "stepping" the rear crossmember 3". Simple. One cut in the frame and some simple fabrication. This approach minimizes the amount of sheet metal cutting and fabrication in the trunk area.

I don't care for the look of a "Zeed" front end and you can not run fenders.

A 4" dropped axle with reversed spring eyes will bring your front down about 5"

That is the set up I have on my 32. The oil pan sump has about 5" of clearance. The other day I scrapped it going over a speed bump.

I used a forged Chassis Engineering axle. It is 47" king pin center to king pin center. Looks good but you can not run stock 40 Ford style spindles because the steering arms do not clear. I cut the sterring arms off and used stainless steel ones from the Deuce Factory. Chassis Engineering has arms that will clear. If you are going to run fenders the 47" or 46" axles provide a little more tire clearance.

Supper Bell, Magnum, etc offer a 48" axle that will clear the stock steering arms.

If you run a split wishbone you will need to heat and bend the stock steering arms or use dropped arms available from Chassis Engineering, Supper Bell, Magnum, etc.

The object of the exercise is to end up with a rod that has the correct stance. The only way to get this right is to start with your wheels and tires. Do some mocking up before you start cutting or comiting to specific parts.

If you really want low I agree that fabricating a chassis with "Zees" at both ends is the best way to go.

The Maverick 8" rear end is a natural. Most are 2.79 ratio and 3.00 is also common. 3.25 and 3.55 were produced but not offered in Mavericks or Comets. If you want the lower ratios you will have to do some hunting.

Buy Mike's book. It has a wealth of information that can be adapted to most early Ford hot rods.

Hope this helps.