Thread: 392 hemi block????

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I come across two 392 blocks, one has an ear broke on motor mount and the other needs one sleeve because its pitted so bad. Are both these block able to be fix or repaired to run on the street? Which one would you pick?

Originally Posted by ur2slow

I come across two 392 blocks, one has an ear broke on motor mount and the other needs one sleeve because its pitted so bad. Are both these block able to be fix or repaired to run on the street? Which one would you pick?

i can fix both and can take any thing is they would if not hurt long as i can step in the botom of the bore to sleeve it and if just rust should be no big deal i done many blocks .you ask if i had any i do not but i know someone that has some cores but i would have to jump thru some hoops to get one .so i would sell it only as a fully built long block

sorry but you lost me in the first part of that ....can take any thing is they would if not hurt?? Would the one with the broken ear happen again once repaired?

Originally Posted by ur2slow

sorry but you lost me in the first part of that ....can take any thing is they would if not hurt?? Would the one with the broken ear happen again once repaired?

they will take any hp.. is if not hurt ..the fix will be as sound as a block not hurt one sleeve is not a big deal have to see the ear but may not be a big deal

we ran them pretty fast with up to 8 sleeves

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

we ran them pretty fast with up to 8 sleeves

I'd say that's a bit of an under statement.

it was pretty

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

it was pretty

I remember, especially when Carbone was driving.

His first half-3/4 pass that was required of a new driver/car was low et qualifier and Pappy HArt was pissed----chute was out at 1000ft---didn't allow the run to count so ran again--same -1000ft shut off and chute--low et!!!!!

When Steve drove we still had the short body but did have the paint scheme

Both blocks would be ok to use. If the one with the broken motor mount ear is standard bore or close, it would be my first choice. To repair the ear I would Tig weld it with an Everdur rod ( silicon bronze ). If welded correctly, it will last forever. '92 blocks are becomming harder to find. They're around but people are reluctant to part with them. A rarely known piece of interest about '92 engines; they are lighter than Chevy rat motors.

i have had good luck putting many blocks back together with the rod i have used here is some .so a ear not a big deal to me 8 sleeves are not a big deal. just one is a walk in the park

Nice job on the lifter bore. Everdur rod would be no good for that kind of a repair because once welded, it is very hard to machine. What kind of rod did you use ? ( Thanks for the pictures )

your right you have to watch your heat zone if its to cool your can end up with a hard spot or a weld that will not machine . i weld decks put back in oil pan rail s starter ears and cracks . i like to U groove the spot heat out with a rose bud tip to 400.then use weld mold rod rod there 700 and 702 i have had very good luck with this stuff . but some blocks just weld like crap .i do alot of peining of the weld and grinding back for clean .sound as i can weld. i tig with missle rod and nickel but there much more pre heat and cool down not really worth the time . iron filler rod can be used but you have to get every thing so hot all machine work could be screwed up from all the heat .i also use the threaded plugs /pins for small cracks