Thread: valve set on a 318

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went across I20 from Anniston Al toward Atlanta Friday afternoon------------

You were almost in my neighborhood.

Got my set of pushrods. Apparently, a set is eight, and one should order two sets for a motor.

The adventure continues

Spring is here in the south.

I have the gauges cluster installed, new sending unit, and steering column with new blinker switch and coupler. ( not the rag joint ). Fuel guage might be working, if not calibrated.

Installed the newer longer pushrods on the intakes, the old ( undamaged) on the exhaust. That saves me a bill. Also the longer rods adjust above center, as the old ones adjust below center. Runs good, but a light tick tack on driver side.

Also installed a new heater valve and actuator cable.

Going to try again adjusting the (roller) rockers. There is a backfire on the passenger side which worries me.

I am using the Chilton manual valve adjustment procedure for a sbc, as the firing order is apparently identical. Sure wish I could use the 'tick' method, but it's not possible to make adjustment with motor running.

If anyone has a better way, I'd love to hear it.

Valve adjustment attempt #2 no better. Still an exhaust backfire on passenger side, still a nasty tick on driver's side.

I'm thinking there is maybe a problem with using the stock sbc sequence?

The procedure for adjusting has been posted a bunch on here but it may take some searching to find it. With #1 at TDC compression, loosen both rockers until you have a slight up & down play in the pushrod, then tighten until the play is gone (just lifting the pushrod and allowing it to fall back, no pushing down on the push rod), then turn 1/4 turn tighter and lock it down. Turn the crank pulley 90 degrees and do the next one in your firing order, and repeat for all eight, turning 90 degrees for each cylinder. Piece of cake.

Ok, I was thinking of giving that one a try next.

My Chiltons says put it on tdc#1, then gives 8 rockers to adjust, then rotate 360, and do the remaining 8. Firing order is the same, but maybe something is different somewhere.

How long do the lifters need to rest after crank rotation?

Lifters don't nee any rest. Your not compressing the lifters.

Ok, I tried again, adjusting each cylinder at tdc, in firing sequence.

No more backfire on passenger side, but still a tick on #3 exhaust.

Could it be a collapsed lifter?

Turn it down another full turn to see if it goes away-------------if it does, then back it out 1/2 turn see what happens---If quiet---put valve cover on---if it needs more adjusting--trial and error til its quiet and smooth running----------



HAve you measured the tappet lift with a dial indicator??????????(will indicate the possiblity of a flattened lobe-)

One thing I don't quite have my brain wrapped around:

How does the lifter not collapse when there is no oil pressure?

I don't have an appropriate dial indicator. I doubt the engine has fifty hours of run time.

Another question is why the variance of preload opinions? My old Chiltons says a full turn, but I've heard 1/8, 1/4, 3/4,&1 turn.

You have been posting about this since last July----now you say you are down to just one clicker---------------tighten that one up a full turn to see if it goes away----if it does , back it out 1/2 turn to see if it clicks again----clicks, retighten, don't klick, loosen 1/4 turn, clicks retighten, don't klick,loosen some more----find the place it goes away---------------if you can;t get it to stop, you need to look at the rocker, valve tip, spring, push rod, etc------------find whats wrong-------but if its just not adjusted yet, start wrenching-------------then drive it---------------

There is no statue of limitations on projects. Lots of build threads here are years in the making.

Anyway, success. Valves are silent, no backfires, sounds strong.

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

There is no statue of limitations on projects. Lots of build threads here are years in the making.

Anyway, success. Valves are silent, no backfires, sounds strong.

Yeah, no statute of limitations, but making a year long "project" out of adjusting lifters? That's patience, I'd say!! Regardless, glad you got them adjusted to your satisfaction and that it's all quiet, sounds strong and is running right! Good deal!

To answer your question of why a lifter doesn't collapse with zero oil pressure---------there is a check valve that holds the oil in the lifter during the opening of the valve--when the valve spring pressure ISN'T back loading the check valve, the engine oil pressure can take up the unloaded clearance(ZERO clearance)keeps the noise down