Thread: I'm a new user from San Francisco looking for some advicee

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Looks pretty good in the pictures except for that spot in the trunk we talked about a couple days ago. Best thing to do is get an awl, or similar, and poke around to see if any of the "surface" rusted areas is very thin. Looks like the drain trough under the back glass is even in decent shape! If not, you'll want to fix that too since that catches the water that rolls down the back glass. Still think you might have some rust issue at the bottom of the quarters.

Wow Boss, you've been making progress. Looks really good, and this car is certainly no rust bucket. Metal looks very solid. Others may have better suggestions, like Por15 or similar, but I like old fashioned Ospho to treat rusted areas. It is cheap, and flows into nooks and crannys because of it's waterlike consistency. A quart is something like $ 7.00 in hardware stores.
Here is a little write up on Ospho:


The active ingredient is phosphoric acid.

Ospho is greenish liquid with the consistency of water. Brush or spray it on rust after just knocking off the loose scales and it pretty much stops rust dead. It also leaves no residue. There is a product called "Neutra-rust". It may have ospho as the active ingredient but its in a milk-like base that changes from beige to blue/green when applied. It then leaves a sand-able coating.


Ospho stops rust, prepares rusted surfaces for painting. Ospho is a primer-not a paint. You do not have to remove tight rust. Merely remove loose paint and rust scale, dirt, oil, grease and other accumulation with a wire brush. Apply a coat of Ospho-let it dry overnight, then apply the paint. When applied to rusted surfaces, Ospho causes iron oxide to chemically change to iron phosphate - an inert, hard substance that turns the metal black. One gallon covers 600 square feet.

part# description
1280-011 ospho 1-qt
1280-01 ospho 1-gal


Like I said, there are many other products, but for the money, I like this one a lot.

Don

First let me say "Welcome to CHR". I have been away for a little while with a broken arm and avoiding typing. That said, from your photos it looks like you have a terrific car with a lot of potential. What others have said about your priorities are true. Things cost money, but don't have to depending upon your level of sweat equity and skills. Doing your own work you could likely rewire the entire car for about $500 for a good wiring kit including the extras. You could get away for half that price with a cheaper kit, but electrical fires, especially inside the car are a bitch, so I would go with a good kit.

You mentioned chopping the roof 2 -2.5 inches. Certainly would make a nice looking coupe. If you have never done a chop I would strongly suggest having a pro shop do it. Better yet - don't do it. A couple of more inches can be very nice. Don't get me wrong, I am not against chopping. I have a 34 Plymouth sedan with a 4 inch chop. Looks terrific, not all that comfortable driving if you are over 6' tall.

My choice, and I am sure I might be in the minority, would be to restore the body to original ( love the roll down rear window) and modernize every thing else especially anything related to safety (brakes, wiring, suspension, powertrain). But then, the car is yours to do with as you choose. Regardless of what you do, always make good choices, then the regrets will be minimized. This can be a great and rewarding project for you.

Originally Posted by mopar34

My choice, and I am sure I might be in the minority, would be to restore the body to original ( love the roll down rear window) and modernize every thing else especially anything related to safety (brakes, wiring, suspension, powertrain). But then, the car is yours to do with as you choose. Regardless of what you do, always make good choices, then the regrets will be minimized. This can be a great and rewarding project for you.

My choices too and welcome to CHR.

When you prime it, you have to use a 2-part epoxy primer or a 1-part polyeurethane primer in order to seal out moisture and keep the rust from coming back. I have had good luck with Pettit Rustlock available at West Marine for $30 a quart. This is a 1-part paint for simple application. Most modern paint systems recommend you use a 2-part primer, but this Pettit's stuff seems to have a good enough solvent resistance once cured that modern paints can be applied over it without problem.

You can get all the help you can afford at Roy Brizio Street Rods in South San Francisco, close to the airport. There is also Dominator Street Rods in Byron, a little drive for you. They can get anything your little heart desires. Except money of course. Ha ha! Make sure you hit the Goodguys shows in Pleasanton, you can network there, especially the August show. Every vendor known to man is there concerning Street Rods.

Keith...

Just another update on parts. In one of your threads we talked about Speedway Motors being a source for the alternator that looks like a generator, and may have mentioned they have the "Lincoln" style brakes, drums, hubs and so on. Well, not trying to sound like a flack for Speedway here, but with heavy parts like this shipping can add up in a hurry. I saw today that Speedway is offering free shipping on orders over $400 from now through Jan 13, 07, and since they're pretty competitive on the parts pricing this makes them a good deal if that's the way you want to go.

Man, I had forgotten how much clean-up original iron requires . . .