Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: 1946 Chevy truck streetrod assembly
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    chevy46plus is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Silver Springs
    Posts
    4

    Question 1946 Chevy truck streetrod assembly

     



    I have been working on my streetrod project for several years now and have most of the individual body parts completed. I need to assemble and align the body parts and this is where I could use some help. The bed is custom fabricated so a bed installation kit is of no use ( note: the truck was oriiginally a 3/4 ton flatbed), the running board center braces were bent slightly when they had support bracing welded to them during the frame and cab repair/modifications. The rear running board braces had to be removed to facilitate my custom, through the running board, side exhaust. This leaves me with only the front running board brace that is still in the correct alignment and location. I am utilizing an original style body installation kit for installing the cab but I have to get an idea on aligning the bed relative to the cab, parallelism between the bed, running boards and the bed/running board filler panels. The hood alignment to the front clip was never very good prior to disassembly. The hood/front clip gap, towards the grill, was approximately 3/8+ of an inch greater as compared to the gap near the firewall. This indicated that there was a front clip droop but using additional spacer material between the radiator housing and frame did not seem to correct it. I have the chassis on a scissor lift in my workshop at home and the bottom of the frame rails, the lower part of the door window openings, and the top edge of the truck bed are parallel with each other. Any help in establishing alignment points and/or techniques would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    fort myers
    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 ford/'39 dodge/ '23 t
    Posts
    11,033

    I can't help you on your bed issue, but just wanted to say welcome.


    Don

  3. #3
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
    Posts
    12,423

    I think I'd start by dripping a plumb bob from points on the frame to the floor. Mark them with chalk, then snap a chalk line from point to point. It shouldn't take long to graph out a grid on the floor that is square and that you can plumb-bob to other points on the truck.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  4. #4
    fourty1's Avatar
    fourty1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    port townsend
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1941 painted 1/2 ton Hot Rod pickup
    Posts
    155

    running boards & such..

     



    This is the truck that started it for me.. I finally passed, ( only because I didn't have $$20+K lying around, but the truck was up here in a Seattle car lot for sale !!!... New buyer is from UK.. Interesting web site,... very Heads Up people....
    Hope any of these pictures help, in your installation..
    -41-
    Attached Images

  5. #5
    chevy46plus is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Silver Springs
    Posts
    4

    Thank you. Seeing the cab and hood side molding alignment will help. I think I will remove the bent "center" running board brackets and replace them prior to continuing. This will delete the running board to rear fender ailgnment interference.

  6. #6
    countilaw's Avatar
    countilaw is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    cleburne
    Posts
    35

    I am currently converting/building a 46 3/4 ton flat bed to a 46 1/2 ton short bed. I am using a S- 10 frame and suspension.

    I think you are asking about aligning the cab, bed, and running boards to where they are in a straight line.
    If your not using the original frame, you first must get the cab to where it has to sit in relationship to the radiator support. The distance from the radiator support to the cab is critical. (The front fenders connect the radiator support to the cab and running boards)
    then I would start by getting the running boards level with the ground by using a bubble level. Once you get the radiator support, cab and running boards connected together, you can secure the running boards to the frame. Then set the bed on the frame and check the gap between the cab and bed to make sure it's an equal gap from top to bottom. Adjust the bed to get the cab to bed gap equal and then raise or lower the bed to close the gap to the splash panels between the bed and running boards.

    Adjust the bed back to front so that the running boards connect with the front fenders and the rear fenders.

    It's going to take a lot of trial fitting to get everything lined up right.

    I hope that helps with what you are triing to do.

    Frank
    There are no stupid questions. But I've seen some really stupid answers.


    http://www.coxcustomcarstx.com/


    http://www.use.com/editset.pl?set=67406f07b7eb93a2633d

  7. #7
    chevy46plus is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Silver Springs
    Posts
    4

    Thank You for your response. This sounds like a good approach.

  8. #8
    chevpanel is offline Registered User Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Vanderhoof
    Car Year, Make, Model: 46 gmc, 46 chev panel
    Posts
    2

    I have just mocked up my 46 gmc and this is what I finially came up with. First chalk a center line of chassis on floor, and two more lines parallel to the center line wider then the body, to use as reference.
    1. Mount cab to frame square and with proper spacers shim where needed
    2. Mount rad support and hood, moving rad support to get proper hood to cab alignment.
    3. Mount front fenders, splash apron,and fender grill inserts ,to get proper alignment to hood and cab. Keeping fenders the same left to right on the cab
    4. Mount box and box to running board splash aprons loosely on frame
    5. Mount running boards to front fenders and running board braces loosely
    6. Mount rear fenders to box and running board loosely
    7. With fenders attached to the running boards you should be able to place the box in it,s proper location.

    I used fiberglass fenders and running boards and spent about 30 hours to mocked the complete body to frame.
    Hope this might help
    George

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink