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Thread: trouble starting when engine is warm!!
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    riotke207 is offline Registered User Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1997 Mustang
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    trouble starting when engine is warm!!

     



    Hey guys, I'm a rookie at the car game so take it easy on me. anyways, I have a 350 bored .30 with edelbrock e-tec 2.02 heads, dual plane performer rpm intake, edelbrock 600 cfm carb, edelbrock cam, 1.6 alum roller rockers. I had trouble starting it so I replaced the flexplate and added a high torque mini-starter. Now, my car starts great when I first start it up, but when I've been driving it for a while and shut if off it doesn't want to start back up again. When I turn the key it tries to start but acts as if its not getting enough gas. The carb also has an electric choke on it. ( I don't know if that matters.
    I bought an msd6al ignition but haven't installed it. Would this help or does the problem lie elsewhere.

    Any direction would be great at this point. Thanks guys!
    riotke207

  2. #2
    lt1s10's Avatar
    lt1s10 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1997 CHEVY.S10 LT1-350
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    Re: trouble starting when engine is warm!!

     



    Originally posted by riotke207
    Hey guys, I'm a rookie at the car game so take it easy on me. anyways, I have a 350 bored .30 with edelbrock e-tec 2.02 heads, dual plane performer rpm intake, edelbrock 600 cfm carb, edelbrock cam, 1.6 alum roller rockers. I had trouble starting it so I replaced the flexplate and added a high torque mini-starter. Now, my car starts great when I first start it up, but when I've been driving it for a while and shut if off it doesn't want to start back up again. When I turn the key it tries to start but acts as if its not getting enough gas. The carb also has an electric choke on it. ( I don't know if that matters.
    I bought an msd6al ignition but haven't installed it. Would this help or does the problem lie elsewhere.

    Any direction would be great at this point. Thanks guys!
    the msd box may or may not help, but it sure wont hurt anything. make sure the choke betterfly is open all of the way after the motor gets hot. its hard to say, could be most anything. put the box on and make sure the choke is open when hot, then let me know whats going on . sounds like the carb. might be leaking down
    Mike
    check my home page out!!!
    http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html




  3. #3
    hambiskit is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    First thing I would do if you can afford it is replace that carb. - it's too small for your combo. I would look at 670, or up to 750 cfm.
    Jim

  4. #4
    lt1s10's Avatar
    lt1s10 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Originally posted by hambiskit
    First thing I would do if you can afford it is replace that carb. - it's too small for your combo. I would look at 670, or up to 750 cfm.
    dont take much of a carb. to start a motor.

    and by the way hambiskit, you wrote this the other day and i took the time to reply and you kind of left me hanging, but i was just wondeihg what part of my post you didnt belive. i lived in rich. va from 1982 till 1995, i drove a 454 blown truck or car just about every day, i was in a car show 1 or 2 times a yr from 1986 to 1991 so if you didnt see the cars, i dont know what to say. i was there.

    LT1 is that you in the picture? I lived in Richmond from 1972 till 2001, and I was trying to place you. I would have noticed a blower going down the road, but I don't remember that El-Camino.

    Mike
    check my home page out!!!
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  5. #5
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    Shane65 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    For the street, the 600 cfm is close to being the perfect carb. If you are doing some racing (steet or track) then a bigger carb is needed. If you get the engine above 4500 rpm much, then you may also consider a larger carb.
    http://groups.msn.com/SNS2/65shane.msnw

  6. #6
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    Sounds to me, like when the engine is shut down all the heat coming of the engine is boiling the fuel out of the fuel bowl of the carb. Befor taking the carb off ry this. Cut 2 pieces of sheet metal and roughly cut out half the carb base area so you can snuggly fit them between the manifold and carb. Drive around as usual untill the engine is warm, shut down motor and stick the 2 p[ieces of sheetmetal around the carb. Come back in 10--15 minutes or so and try to start up. If it starts easy Then order a carburetor heat shield and install it.
    "aerodynamics are for people who cant build engines"

    Enzo Ferrari

  7. #7
    Don Meyer is offline Moderator Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Do not assume it's the carb. Check the engine to frame mount.
    Don
    Don Meyer, PhD-Mech Engr(48 GMC Trk/chopped/cab extended/caddy fins & a GM converted Rolls Royce Silver Shadow).

  8. #8
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    Tommycat is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I would check the fuel lines too. also doublecheck to make sure the butterflys are operating freely
    º¿º>^. .^<
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    Hemlock is what?!? -- Socrates

  9. #9
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    try advancing your timing

  10. #10
    383 chev's Avatar
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    sorry wrong thread!! LOL!!

  11. #11
    Mikej's Avatar
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    The edelbrock carbs seem to have a problem with heat soak so a insulated spacer helps. Also an electric fuel pump. Let it run and fill the bowls before cranking. Insulate fuel lines or move them if they are getting to hot. Fuel tank gas cap not venting.
    If it's not broke, fix it anyway.

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