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Thread: RUST! how too?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    D10s69C10 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 69 C-10 fleetside
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    RUST! how too?

     



    Recently i just baught this 1969 c10 and untill today i thought there were a few rust spots in the bed and on the doors but nothing serious. of course i was vacuming out the cab today when i noticed the driverside carpet near the E-brake was damp so naturally i looked up. i found many small holes up above that had all once had wires and rubber grommets running though them no biggie. but as soon as i looked under the capet the real shock set in about 9 sq inches of the floor has rust on it no holes yet thank got but i am wondering what i should do to get rid of it and how i can do this without pulling the truck apart..

    weld new sheet metal once i find clean metal. sand it down if possible and paint over?

  2. #2
    Matt167's Avatar
    Matt167 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '51 Chevy Fleetline and a Ratrod project
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    Pull the carpet up enough to get to the rust, got to tell you 2 ways, amature and professional.

    The professional way, cut out the rusted metal and cut a new peice using the rusted peice for a template, hold it in with strong magnets, hard drive magnets would work well, if you have an old hard drive. once the peice is held in, mig weld it in, using only spot welds, but lots of them to keep the heat down, then grind it off and spray a primer then a rust prevenative paint, rustolum would be fine, bottom and top.

    Amature fix. Cut a peice of steel, say 18 gauge, make shure it's at least 1" bigger than the rust, arc weld it in.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  3. #3
    D10s69C10 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    alright sounds good i ordered a left side foot panel repalcement from year one and i got the mig so ill do it like that.. thank you.

  4. #4
    76GMC1500 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Use as much power as you can without burning through. With the short welds, you wont have enough time to get penetration for strength if you don't use enough heat. Grinding off the crown of the weld means you need penetration for strength.

  5. #5
    Uncle Gene is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Rust

     



    As I tend to be a purest and have all the toys Migs Tigs and the like and use them daily, the best way is to cut out the affected area and weld in new fabricated "shaped " metal. As you have probally determined this requires both the equipment to form the metal hamers shot bag wheel ecc and the know how to use them. This method can be expensive. Alas if the rust is in fact surface and the structural integrity is not seriously affected there is a product on the market Call POR 15 and is like a phosphoric acid stuff that actually chemically bond with the Ferous oxide and encapslustes the rust. Best yet only approx $25.00 and brushes on!! Just "Google/Dogpile" or other search and find a local Dist. Uncle Gene

  6. #6
    shawnlee28's Avatar
    shawnlee28 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    http://www.prp-porstore.com/ They even have a floorboard kit!!!!
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  7. #7
    D10s69C10 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    yeas i have looked into por 15 for some other things, do you sand all the rust off and paint to bare metal or is it acctually painted over it?

  8. #8
    76GMC1500 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    You need only remove the loose stuff. Then paint over whatever rust and metal is left behind.

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