Thread: Spot Repair/Repaint area
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03-31-2005 12:49 PM #1
Spot Repair/Repaint area
I have to reapply base, my question is for the little dirt/dust, do you need to sand it all the way down or will scuffing remove it? I guess it depends on how deep it is right?
The 2nd question is now if I had spots that where taken down where the base coat was removed would you then paint on those spots first with maybe 2 coats then do the whole panel? Also, would there be any way to fix a spot without having to respray the whole panel, everytime I tried just reapplying base to a spot it does not look even with the rest of the panel (overspray?).
Thanks in advance!
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03-31-2005 01:43 PM #2
what brand of paint ? metalics or solid ? color ? give me a little info and either me or spray tech can help you .yes i drove ,the trailer didnot drive it's self
FATGIRLS ARE LIKE MOPEDS , FUN TO RIDE JUST DONT LET YOUR FRIENDS SEE YOU ON THEM
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03-31-2005 02:28 PM #3
Its a ppg dbc orient blue mettalic.
Thanks
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03-31-2005 02:59 PM #4
yes , you can sand the base coat BUT you will have to re-coat the area you sanded and blend out your base , plus if you sand with to rough grit paper it will leave sandscratches in the base coat . if you sand base try with a grit of 800 . most times if you try to get dirt out of metalic paint you cause more problems than you started with .
as for spoting in clear that is left to professionals , i have been painting cars for about 15 years and i still have a hard time doing it . sand to a edge and clear the whole panel .
if you rear trying to do a panel without a distinct edge then you sand your blend area with 2000 then clear your panel up to the blend area . then when you are done clearing the panel reduce your clear with a fade-out thinner and then very lightly spray your blend area and a little of the cleared area to burn the 2 areas .
let dry , then buff lightly .
i hope this helps you . maybee if spray tech reads this he will have some helpful tips also .
by the way ,this works with standox ( high line dupont )yes i drove ,the trailer didnot drive it's self
FATGIRLS ARE LIKE MOPEDS , FUN TO RIDE JUST DONT LET YOUR FRIENDS SEE YOU ON THEM
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03-31-2005 03:10 PM #5
So as far as spray spotting the base, can that be blended, I've tried to just reapply base on a section and I always end up painting the whole panel because it looks off. The spot where it was applied looks shinier and the around it looks dull (orange peel looking).
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03-31-2005 03:54 PM #6
yes , you can spot the base .after covering the areas sanded then try to over-reduce the base , and feather out the base . you will see a difference in the old paint and new paint untill you clear over it .yes i drove ,the trailer didnot drive it's self
FATGIRLS ARE LIKE MOPEDS , FUN TO RIDE JUST DONT LET YOUR FRIENDS SEE YOU ON THEM
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03-31-2005 04:03 PM #7
Over-reduce the base? Does that mean putting a 1(base) : 1-1/2 (reducer)? then mask around the spot and feather out the base?
I might notice a little difference but If I clear it, it won't be as noticeable? Is that what your saying?
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03-31-2005 05:30 PM #8
AH the JOYS of learning to spot repair
I have been refinishing for 30 years and with the new BC/CC's it has made spot repairing much easier, untill you get to the pearl coats and tri stages .
I highly dont reccomend blending out the clear Only if necessary , if you dont have a break off point. But if you have to blend a clear edge I use a wounderful product I found to work excellent called UPOL 20:43 fade out spray ( comes in an aerosol can & developed overseas) its incredable stuff !!!!
Melts that clear edge so well you cant even see it .
But use it sparingly ( spray from 12' away from clear edge , one light coat , let sit for 30-40 seconds then one more light coat ) as to much it will make the clear edge run , then you have another problem
say you are spotting in a door I would sand whole door with 800 grit wet or dry , then spray down DBC 500 blend clear over the whole panel ( trust me I do this over every spot I do as it fills the light sand scratches so metallics and pearls dont get trapped in the sand scratches and show after clearing ) then mix your color like PPG says , then using a little lower air pressure spray first coat in the area that needs color , the next coat a light bump up in air pressure on gun and spray another coat about 2"- 4" past the first coat, then another bump in air pressure and the 3rd coat sprayed about 2"-4" past the 2nd coat , this helps in keeping the over spray down that I think you are seeing. lightly tac the door and spray 2 coats of clear and your done !
any small dirt imperfections just water sand flat with 1000 - 1200 grit and buff.
Hope this is helpful.
SprayTech
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04-01-2005 03:30 PM #9
If I wetsand to 800 the whole panel. It won't mess the mettalic pearl? My thought is if you wetsand the whole panel won't you need to rebase the whole thing? Or will the DBC 500 take care of that?
Thanks
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04-01-2005 08:04 PM #10
I take it your asking if its alright to sand the base coat because of dirt? this isnt what I call a spot repair if you havent even layed your clear down yet.
If you have a little dirt in the base , just hit the top of the dirt speck with 800 grit, not the whole panel, then re-tac, I wouldnt worry about the minor dirt pieces , because the more you mess around trying to keep dirt out you end up with more dirt , just spray the color , and clear , people worry to much about stuff they have little control over , there is air bound dirt you will never get rid of ! and most dirt comes off YOU, the air hose , the gun , walking around and dragging the hose across the floor stirs up dirt , if you base is that dirty you need to find another area to spray color in .
SprayTech
Merry Christmas ya'll
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