Thread: Bargain Paint ?

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A friend of mine is getting ready to paint a trailer. He paid $30 a gallon for his paint from a local paint store. Says it is industrial stuff - intended to paint buidings, heavy equipment, etc. He also said it is the same stuff used for cars, only sold through a different outlet.

I read the label and it is an acrylic enamel, but this sounds too good to be true. Anyone more knowledgeable who tell me more?

Thanks

Acrylic enamel is probably fine for a trailer. Some of the commercial coatings do come in that price range, not really the paint I would use on a car but it should be fine for a trailer.

i can guarentee that within 12 months that industrial spraying enamal will be oxidised to a chalky dull finish.But at $30 who cares?,I have used it myself on cars ,even tinted it to get a better colour than white..LOL. But it will oxidise and look like it's ten years old already. Can't be worse than the Merc i'm rebuilding at the moment,it was stripped to the metal and painted with acyrlic house paint, that stuff contains ammonia and eats steel.Drys fast though.

well Acrylic Enamel wasnt a bad product in its day , from the upper end of the paint manufacturers.

The Catylist ( hardner ) is what made it last, but the isocyinates in the catylist also made it deadly!

If you are just going to use this paint on a trailor with no hardner it might last about 6 months to a year, with hardner and kept polished might go 2 years, longer if garage kept as the UV rays its what breaks down a paint job ! no matter what the the paint is , Lacquer , acrylic uerathane, acrylic enamel, or uerathane .

SprayTech

P.S. When it comes to paint , you usually get what you pay for .

Cheap paint is John Deere Blitz Black. The only thing I wanna know about the John Deere paint is will it take it moisture without a clear coat? Spraytech, Dave, anyone know? Denny said that it will because flat colors are porous and that is true but why would they put this on tractors and I never see rust under the paint or nothing?
Sorry this isn't my thread but deals with cheap paint so it's ok I am guessing.
Thanks!

John Deere BB is 22 bucks a gallon I think it is. It might have gone up now since the last time I saw it but still that is cheap and I hear it is strong.

I honestly couldnt tell you if moisture will penetrate the Blitz Black , but If it was me I would buy some cheap ass clear and spray 2 coats over my primer, let sit a few days then scuff and spray the Blitz Black . that way moisture wont penetrate and start rusting . And you have the Hot Rod primer look you want , with out having to lay flattened clear down.

spray

Spray, good idea. That is what Denny told me to do and I totally forgot about that. Any idea's on the cheap clear I should get? I am going to write all this down. Also I plan to do the flat black with gloss black flames (just throw a clear where I wan't the flames) so what is a good clear to use for that as well that will work well on this John Deere stuff? I was going to go with a white for the flames and make them look like smoke (Denny's idea) but I think the gloss black flames would be easier and cheaper for me.
I will try to get the pics of my truck on here this week since I have been busy last weekend and show you what I have on my hands here.

Thanks again!

I find that almost all clears are just "cheap".Spend hours getting a paint job looking nice and 12 months later the Aussie sun has made it look like it has been sunburnt and it's peeling........Sheeeeeit!!!!!
My paint supplier buys it generic 20 liter drums and if i don't insist on a decent product,i get the "car yard " special in a house of kolor tin.
I have had a flat black car (paint product unknown ) sitting in my yard for 18 months in all sorts of weather and NO rust has appeared ,So i don't think all matt or satin finish auto paints are porous,just acrylic primer.

the industrial paint is probably a single stage paint. just reduce and spray. The clear, color, and hardener are all mixed in one. If this is the case, it won't absorb moisture. However it won't hurt to put down a couple coats of clear.

If it were me, Id put flattener in my clear and spray over the SS (single stage) paint. Just make sure the SS has enough time to flash, but not completely dry. If you put the clear under, you can let it dry, scuff it with scoth brite, then spray your SS. the only problem i can see is with your gloss flames on top. If your going to tape them, you need the color to be dry. But clear doesn't stick well to unscuffed paint. You can't scuff the SS without it showing through the clear. You'll have scuff marks all over your flames.

If you want the cheap route, go with the clear under the SS. If you want the better route, put some flattener in your clear. you can let the flat clear dry, tape off your flames, then spray your gloss over the clear with no scuff marks in your flames.

Good luck.

Kustom_oz, thanks for the info man I may do that because I don't wan't scuff marks. Where can I get this flattener at? I don't wan't to spend anything like 800 bucks on materials. This is an everyday driver but I wan't it to have a professional looking paint job and body work but still not spend heaps on materials and at the same time don't wan't really crappy materials either.
Thanks again!

you should be able to order the flattener from wherever you get your clear. Make sure you get the same brand of flattener as clear, otherwise the products may not mix right and your clear will go to crap. it should be that easy. post some pics when you're done.

Insead of spending all this money on cheap clear to seal out moisture from penetrating your primer, try NAPA single stage urethane satin black. It is cheap and looks good for a long while.