Thread: First paint project

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Originally posted by Darin
Hey spraytech , I have been thinking
about trying the clear and concept mix you described. Do you think the southernpoly
clear ( if you have heard of this line ) would be compatible? They claim to have an excellent clear . (3500 is the product #) Also If the southern poly
is compatible , what do toy believe the
window would be to buff ? You know I mentioned adding clear to the final coat of a ss paint job on another forum and they thought I was crazy. I believe this would be a more durable paint job than a bc/cc job Thanks Darin

Darin,
I highly do not recommend mixing different brands of paint at all. If there is a problem with spraying , or a problem down the line , PPG will not stand behind their product !!!! If you use their products bottom to top they will help you out .
This usually goes with any major brand paint company today !

SprayTech

Thanks , Spraytech. I sort of figure that
. You are right about ppg taking care of
a problem atleast my paint supplier did last year on about 400.00 bucks worth
of bc/cc . One more question , how do you compare a bc/cc using dbu base with
the best clear coat vs concept with the best clear added on the last couple coats as you described . One thing that bothers me about bc/cc is it seems I see a lot of lifting of the clear coat on non factory jobs. Seems to me ss ( concept) with clear added would eliminate that problem. As I said earlier I posted on another forum that some guys were adding clear on the last coat of ss jobs and the other guys nearly
cut my throat for even mentioning it. I have been going back and forth with the bc/cc vs ss for the last year while I get my 40 ford coupe ready to paint . Thanks Darin

If you are going to go with a solid color , DCC/ Concept with the 2002 clear added will give you a nice job.

Less times walking around the car spraying.

If its a metallic/pearl I would advise going DBU with global clear over it .

I have sprayed DBU since it came out in like 1987 and have never seen a lift problem .
DBU doesnt have a lift cycle, if it lifts something was done wrong.
DBC I have also sprayed but I use the added hardner to it to lock the base faster ( makes it like DBU as it has reactive reducer for faster dry times). DBC does have a lift cycle if you have to break the clear before it has gassed out before 2 or 3 days.
So I stay with DBU as I can push it to the extremes and not have any problems.
I also have been using Global D893 Clear over the top of it as ithas no solvent pop problems like the other PPG clears, as I have a down Draft booth with a heat makeup on it and cook all my jobs at 140 deg. for 40 minutes. Global buffs real nice and fast , I let it cool down for 30 minutes and I can buff any small dirt specks and be done in just a few minutes.

Hope this helps
SprayTech

Thanks , I have been painting since I was about 14 and just in the last few years ( after a lay off ) have had experience with bc/cc . I bet most of the jobs I have seen were just the average bodyshop(not to throw off on anybody here with a paint and body repair business there are some good ones out there )where they do insurance repair work,they probably rush everything and more than likely use a cheaper paint and could be that they use a bc without a hardner . The reason I am
interested in the ss with clear is I have used ss quite a lot over the years mostly
acrylic enamel on tractors with hardner
and a few cars that I built or dcc on some of the nicer cars that I have done and so forth. I like the fact that on ss you can shoot the car in less steps. This car will be one of the best have done since my early years . As I posted on another thread I
started out years ago with hand rubbed laquer . It was a pain as you know but it was a very good looking finish . Later I
started using ss finishes and got good results . The car Iam doing now is a 40 ford coupe, probably one of the best
(or atleast most valuable) cars I have ever done. It will be solid yellow with
perhaps a flame job . If I decide to do a flame jobI guess a bc/cc will work best although years ago all the flame jobs were done on ss or enamel jobs, the only draw back was you could feel the flames if you rubbed your finger across them ( which everybody does) . I don,t mind that so bad being that i grew up admiring the 50 to60,s hot rods That is what i am doing with this car. yellow, possible flames, rolled and pleated twotone interior ( yellow and white)
gennie wheels with orig caps and rings
( wheels painted same as car) and wide white walls . Thanks again for your input . Darin

Darin,
You do know you can spray PPG's 2002 Clear or their spot clear 2042 over your flames & yellow SS, then sand and buff, to help eliminate or smooth out that paint edge . And not add the clear to your color , use the clear you buy to lay over everything instead of adding it to your yellow .Just a litttle advice.

Or you can have a pin stripe layed around the flame tape edges to help with the nasty paint edge. Plus it will give some extra POP on them flames


I strickly use the BC/CC as all cars and trucks today are BC/CC , plus I work on 45K-95K cadillacs and cant afford to have my jobs looking like crap, as SS doesnt match if your doing a spot repair !


SprayTech

Love the pinstripe . I agree it really makes a flame job stand out but I know of no one in my area that does it and not sure of the cost. Got any idea what it cost to pinstripe
a typical flame job ? ( Sounds too vague?)

That would have to be on the striper him/herself on the price.
I have a lady I have known almost 25 years do our stripes on the Cadillacs at work. Looks like factory painted stripes instead of me masking them out and spraying the color.

I think she charges around 30-50 a side to stripe. depends on if they are 1 color or 2 color stripes too .

Surely you have a Sign painter close to you ,these guys are good with a brush. Might give them a try.
Never know till you ask