Thread: Newbie question

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What type of paint is a high solids hardener used with. Thanks
Tommy

Tommy, Some of the 2-part, or catalyzed paints have been designed to build up the paint film thickness faster, so you can shoot fewer coats. These types of paint are called "high solids".

The fact it is a "high solids" doesn't really tell who's product it is, or what products it can be mixed with.

It should either tell you on the can what it can be used with, or you can call a dealer for that company, and they will have that info.

Originally posted by HOTRODPAINT
Tommy, Some of the 2-part, or catalyzed paints have been designed to build up the paint film thickness faster, so you can shoot fewer coats. These types of paint are called "high solids".

The fact it is a "high solids" doesn't really tell who's product it is, or what products it can be mixed with.

It should either tell you on the can what it can be used with, or you can call a dealer for that company, and they will have that info.

what he said

Originally posted by carbuff
what he said

High Solids means it is VOC compliant, not that it covers faster.

SprayTech

Thank you spraytech. That totally answers my question. I will use it then. Tommy

74 dually,
Most all Acrylic Uerathanes , and Uerathanes are high solids , they all have their own catylist / hardner, some will also require reducer.
These products are made VOC compliant , therefore High Solids. Plus they were designed to spray with an HVLP gun . Better paint transfer from gun to vehicle. Its why lacquer is being forced out , I think Acrylic enamels and synthetic enamels will be next.

Also make sure you wear a good fitting chacoal respirator 3m makes a good one that is fairly cheap , or a fresh air system when shooting , as the catylist has what is called Isocyanates in it , it will kill you eventually or make you deathly sick !

SprayTech

Would I be able to use this high solids hardener with a synthetic enamel? We are fixing to paint an old ranch truck and a horse trailer with a synthetic enamel for practice before I paint my truck. Also is a high solids hardener more expensive than others, like the synthol 8010? And thanks for the advice on the respirator, I will for sure wear one.

When I had one of our dually's painted a few years back the shop that did the work claimed that the rear fenders had to be sprayed separate (in time) from the body. The rear fenders are fabricated from a cheap polyester resin/chopped glass combination that has a strong thermal coefficent of expansion. That using a standard catalyzed paint would craze with age. He said he would add an agent to the paint which would make the paint on the fenders remain somewhat elastic with age.

Question to the paint pros is : Was smoke being blown up my butt by this painter, or is this true?

(Truck was an 1978 Chevy CC dually, should be the same as 74ChevyDually's in this regard.)

Regards, Mark

Spraytech will have the correct answer, but I'm pretty sure there is an elastic agent added to the paint to make it suitable for plastic and glass parts. It's used extensively on the new cars with their plastic bumbers and such.

I think your refering to FLEX additive , while I never use and never needed , as the new Uerathane Clears have pretty good elasticity, plus the Flex additive will change the color, look real close to factory bumper covers on all makes and models closely and you will see what I mean , they are usually a tad off, as the factories use flex additive. and they peal ....LOL

I have sprayed many of dually fenders glass and SMC plastic ( now days are made of SMC ) and have NEVER hade one peal or flake or crack, the only way it cracks is when a rock is thrown from the tire and will star it from underneath.

@74Dually,
You better check with a jobber what type of hardner you need for your color , I have no clue if what you have is compatiable with each other, they all have their own chemical make up and require the correct hardners to work .

You cannot put Acrylic Enamel Hardner into Synthetic Enamel color, or Acrylic Uerathane hardner in to the 2 I just mentioned.
Make darn sure you have what is compatiable with each other before you spray as you may have a BIG mess on your hands and may never dry or worse , turn to jello pudding when you mix the 2 together .


Spray

And thats baking them at 140 for 45 minutes in a heat makeup down draft booth.
No problems so far , and I was at 1 dealership for 13 years and the present deslership for 7 and have not had one come back for paint failure, as we have life time warrenty on our PPG paint and know they would have brought them back for a paint failure !