Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Jams, underhood, etc. on color change
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    mcneilms is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    The Waste Lands of Saudi Arabia
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1993 Hummer, 1973 E-Type Jag
    Posts
    28

    Jams, underhood, etc. on color change

     



    Do you clear coat the jams and underhood during a color change? Seems like a pain, so I don't know if is is necessary or normally done (especially under the hood for the firewall).

    Thanks,

    Scott

  2. #2
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison
    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
    Posts
    21,160

    With basecoat / clearcoat panit, the clear is where the shine comes from. I doubt the basecoat would last long without clear over it. Once you get the jams and all cleaned up enough to paint, the clearcoat doesn't take long to put on....
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  3. #3
    SprayTech's Avatar
    SprayTech is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Wichita
    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford tudor humpback
    Posts
    695

    Daves right , The BC/CC needs the clear for the shine , and Protection !
    Dont skimp to doing a job right .
    Find out if the color you are using can be mixed in a single stage as it doesnt require clear.
    Make sure you clean jambs real well with soap and water first , then wipe real good with wax and grease romover , and when you sand the jambs you sand them good , because anywhere you dont get sanded will peal in time and , makes for a crappy looking job when it all starts popping off.

    Best way to do a color change is to blow the vehicle apart.

    SprayTech

  4. #4
    nc_metalbendr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    New Bern, North Carolina, United States
    Car Year, Make, Model: 06 Mazda3..lookin project car...
    Posts
    23

    Big point to keep in mind is the old sayin bout the harder it is to sand an prep the more important it is to do it right..as THAT is where the paint will lift an peel, it goes double for jambs interior an underhood areas! as it is obviously a pita to do, plus the grease, mildew an funk accumalted after years an miles, an sometimes its simply looked as not as important as the outside, but these areas area what helps show the level of work an detai lput into the job, ive had to do many over the yrs that i didnt have time or help in doin jambs an underhood, and even with an awesome paint job, these areas ruin the whole "finished" look of the car if not done right!
    on a side note, dependin on the quality of paint your goin for, some bc/cc systmes( standox for one) wil allow mixin a hardener in the basecoat for a semiglos look, if yr not goin for a full custom glosy look,

  5. #5
    HOTRODPAINT's Avatar
    HOTRODPAINT is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    tucson
    Posts
    3,043

    Use scotchbrites to sand the jams. It's a lot easier, and gets into the corners better. Most production shops shoot the jams in single stage, mask, and do the outside in BC/CC.

  6. #6
    mcneilms is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    The Waste Lands of Saudi Arabia
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1993 Hummer, 1973 E-Type Jag
    Posts
    28

    Thanks for all the info. I'll check on the single stage for the firewall and underhood, from my supplier.

    But I guess I have a lot of "under the hood" bits to move now. Blowing apart them main body is no big deal (a few bolts). The vehicle is a Hummer (a real one) and they are made too be dismantled in the field. The engine compartment is a little work though as it has air compressors for the tires, and all kinds of do-dads mounted on or in front of the firewall (plus padding for noise) Easy to work on the bits, tough to totally remove.

    My guess is you would use a little air-brush in these places.

    Thanks,

    Scott
    Restoring '93 Hummer
    in the Desert of Saudi Arabia

  7. #7
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison
    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
    Posts
    21,160

    A touch up gun is a smaller overall gun in size, works great on tight spots that a big gun is too big to get in to.
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  8. #8
    HOTRODPAINT's Avatar
    HOTRODPAINT is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    tucson
    Posts
    3,043

    I agree with dave. The airbrush won't work well for this. I'd also use a touch up gun.

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink