Thread: paint gun

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Hi all,,,just picked up a paint gun I am borrowing from my stepdad. He stole it from GM before he retired. It is a DeVilbiss. a few questions for you pro painters.

1. is this an acceptable gun to use on all finishes (i.e. primer, basecoat, clearcoat)?
2. What are the two adjustments on the back of the handle?
3. what products and proceedures to you recomend for cleaning?
3. any other tips, comments,,concerns,,bitches gripes moans and complaints are also welcome.
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I've used a devilbiss for over 30 years, and still use it everyday. If you are just using it for your own work it's fine. If you go into business you will want several kinds of guns.

The big knob on the bottom contorls how much paint flows through the gun. A good starting point is to screw it in all the way, then back it out one full turn. The small knob on top will adjust the fan size. Screw it all the way in, then back it out till the fan opens to it's widest point, then look at the spray to see if it looks even from tip to tip.

I always clean with lacquer thinner, and when spraying with sensitive paints, you would disassemble the gun, and clean the passages with a "bottle" style brush. Check with you paint store. If it gets really nasty, soak all of the parts in "gun cleaner". It take ANYTHING off!

It is not the gun or equipment that will make you a good painter. It is your own definition of what is "good enough".

You can produce nice paintwork with poor equipment and good workmanship,........but you cannot produce nice paintwork with good equipment and a poor workmanship.

So what,,,just fill the container on the bottom with laquer thinner and spray it all through the gun til its gone?

Also, What is considered a "sensitive" paint?

Thanks for your help hotrodpaint,,,,I think with a little guidance I can make this thing look pretty nice. I am considering using a one stage paint on it as it will be my first paint job EVER other than rattle can. Anyone have any thoughts on that idea?

I usually throw a half inch of lacquer thinner in the bottom, shake it good with my finger over the vent hole on top of the cup, and spray 10 seconds. Then I pour it out, and wipe the gun out. Then I repeat that a second time.

Basecoat urethanes tend to stick inside the gun, leaving a film. Metallics and flake also like to hide inside the gun. If you are going to shoot clear, or some other paint that would let small amounts of contaminants show, then tear the gun apart and scrub it out with brushes. After that, run some thinner through the gun again to make sure that there isn't anything floating around loose in there.

There is nothing more frustrating than a nice black paint job, that got a couple specks of metallic in the clearcoat!

I use one of my guns just for clear, to minimize the risk.

Single stage paints are nice, since you don't have to worry about dirt in the clearcoat, or sanding through the clear. The drawbck is that it has to be a solid color. Metallics and pearls colors will not be able to be sanded or buffed, unless they have a clear coat on top, since you would be sanding and disturbing the metallic!

So I, In theory, could shoot metallics and pearls through this gun as well if I did a 2 stage system?

Yes. Over the last 33 years, I have used my Devilbiss for everything, though the fluid tip on mine is a little too small to get a large flake through.

What would I need to look for in a compressor if I were to start doing some mild automotive painting (for me personally, not as a business)? Also, what websites would be good to find auto paint equipment (guns, paints, compressors, other accessories...)?

I work by myself, and I use a pair of compressors. I've had many styles over the years, but I usually go to Sears, and buy a 5-6 HP "oil-less" type, with 30-35 gallon tank. When I'm doing spot work, or bike parts, I run one of them, and for air tools, or spraying a car, I turn the second one on. This way, you are never shut down completely, or have to spend more than $300-400 dollars at a time.

as far as your gun goes... you can spray basically whatever you want through it depending on your tip size. I use a 1.7 tip for primer, and a 1.3 or 1.4 for base/clear/special fx. cleaning your gun is key.

as far as paint system used... if I were doing my first paint job today, I'd want to do a base/clear 2 stage. its nearly impossible to fix runs/sags/and other defects in a single stage paint. with a 2 stage, it will be a little more forgiving. If your stepdad "aquired" this gun, I would assume he has a little paint experience. ask someone you know to give you pointers for shooting. and do a few practice runs on something thats not a car. i.e. garage walls, fridges, toilet seats, etc.

compressors... I had a 5hp 29 gallon sears compressor that would not keep up with me for spraying a motorcycle tank last summer. the key to compressors is getting a 2-stage motor. it can produce more air and has a better chance of keeping up with your painting. I recently bought a 10hp 120 gallon comp. That is probably way to big for what you're doing, but I never have to worry about running out of air again. with compressors, get as much as you can for your price range. you can always find a use for more air.

Be sure to get some kind of water filter for your comp. when they run for extended periods of time ( like a complete paint job ) heat from the motor will cuase a lot of water to get into your lines. few things can ruin a good paint job like water in your lines.

good luck

Jason

when i started body work, i blew 3 craftsman compressors..lol... not my favorite by any means... go with the 2stage compressors much better,, I bought a cheapo from tractor supply place it was a 7.5hp that did a decent job it had a 60 gallon tank it was like $400.,, and on a big spray job,, it'd start to get low by the end, but it still did ok.
but right now. i've got two really good compressors... one is a 7.5hp on a 120 gallon tank and a 10hp on a huge ass 240 gallon tank that i got from my uncle... way over kill but i can have two people sand blasting and two people sanding and never have a prob with air...lol.. but right now it's just me so i only run the small one... but sometimes i forget to turn it on in the morning, and with all the air I usually dont' notice till the end of the day.. even if i'm painting,, it's insane...lol....

also check harbor freight for compressors last time i was there they had a few decent ones for around $400.

I've been getting 3-5 years out of the craftsman oilless, and I work about 350 days a year by myself, So they must be better now.

Could be better, that was like 6yrs ago or so.. just had much bad luck with them for some reaon.

Wow,,its been a while since I posted. Alot has happened and I have learned gobs since then. For starters,,,after all the F@$*ing sanding I have done I am not taking the chance with this dinasour of a gun,,I will be buying an HVLP. I have had to weld in a patch panel on the right rear quarterpanel (was nervous but it turned out pretty good). I have guide coated and blocked down the entire car TWICE just to be safe. and I shot Primer through that gun I showed a picture of. WONT WORK FOR PAINT. Dave at my local paint store said it would cost about $200 to rebuild the gun I have, and I can buy an HVLP for that so that is what I am going to do. Also,,, Ill not be going with a one stage system,,,Ill be using a BC/CC. Painting the car HOK Blood Blue (which is actually a blood red??go figure) with a black stripe. Man do I have a whole new respect for guys who do body and paint work. This is a ton of tedious time consuming work. Evertime i find myself saying "thats good enough" I walk away for a while. Anyway,,Ill have to get some progress pictures posted up hopefully this thing will come out OK. Just wanted to give an update for those who care,,
later,
Chris

Originally posted by HOTRODPAINT
I work by myself, and I use a pair of compressors. I've had many styles over the years, but I usually go to Sears, and buy a 5-6 HP "oil-less" type, with 30-35 gallon tank. When I'm doing spot work, or bike parts, I run one of them, and for air tools, or spraying a car, I turn the second one on. This way, you are never shut down completely, or have to spend more than $300-400 dollars at a time.

Great idea!!!!!!

Bert

Originally posted by Z281979
Dave at my local paint store said it would cost about $200 to rebuild the gun I have

Hmmmm - shouldn't a new paint needle, tip and gaskets get r done? Possibly a new air needle too.

I don't know - maybe that IS $200 !!!!!????

Bert