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Thread: Paint my 66!
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    brianrupnow's Avatar
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    FMX---I used a base/clear paint, Sikkens Lesonal. It cost over $1000 to paint a vehicle half the size of you truck. Way back in the day, when I started painting, I used paint from Canadian Tire (tremclad), and rustoleum paint. This stuff is cheap, has an unbelieveable gloss, and will last for about 5 years. It is great paint to learn on. The only word of caution to give regarding black, is that it is the very worst colour to show up less than perfect bodywork. The lighter a colour is, the less it will show your bodywork. Any kind of paint that is "silvery" will be a metallic. There is no naturally occuring pigment that gives a silvery colour. This colour (silver) is achieved by grinding polished aluminum into a fine powder and adding a clear binder to it to make silvery colored paint.---stay away---stay away!!!! For your first painting attempts go with a solid "organic" color.
    Last edited by brianrupnow; 06-06-2005 at 05:31 AM.
    Old guy hot rodder

  2. #17
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    I remember painting my Corvette and my brothers mustang in my driveway.........nice day, no wind....wet down the concrete and let er rip........both came out great......because I was using old nitrous cellulose paint........and lacquer........both you can wet sand out the specks and bugs (lol)......both dry fast and so not much gets in them. Those were the days............haha

  3. #18
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
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    Brian I will definetely check that out then! 5 years isn't too bad. That will probably be how long the semi gloss John Deere paint will last. When I do the body work on here I will make sure it's perfect. There is going to be a lot of work to do on this because the trim wholes ALL the way around the truck were bondoed in you can tell, because the wholes have cracks around them and starting to pop out. The tail gate is very bad, you can see where all the wholes were around it (no kidding there is about 50 holes at LEAST) but they aren't popped all the way through yet, just indentions.
    Right now I am between this stuff you told me about Brian or the JD stuff. The John Deere flat black isn't completely black, it's got kind of a shine to it so not THAT bad but oh well. I firgured, 22 bucks a gallon plus 14 for hardener and reducer, that is cheap. I was looking in a recent Street Rodder mag and someone did a old 30s sedan in john deere black and to tell you the truth it isn't so bad as long as you have nice chrome rims, chrome grill and bumper and chrome rear bumper to set it all off.
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  4. #19
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    no flat

     



    man I wouldn't paint it flat unless your body work isn't ok an you have to repaint it anyway. go for gloss, you will be REAL happy with any catalyzed paint. flat has its own problems to spray, get the experience you need with a real paint, enjoy and happy birthday

  5. #20
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
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    So anyone have any idea on what brand to get them for this catalyst paint or whatever that Brian and TOOL are talking about? I need to paint this thing here in the next 2 months or so when I can. The rust is comming through more now and I don't want it to spread anymore than it has.
    Any info on this paint such as where to get it, which brand, price, etc would be great. I can't really afford much here, I just need something that will get me by for now.
    www.streamlineautocare.com

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  6. #21
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    TOOL, thanks for the happy bday too man! Almost forgot to thank you, heh. See I am not THAT rude.
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  7. #22
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    i get in trouble every time i get into this. first off i owned a production van shop for 20 years. we painted 10 to 15 a day. thats a lot of laps in the booth. i do not use 2nd line paint. if you have problems they will not stand behind it. for a first time painter i would suggest centari enamel with a glamor pack . it's user friendly and last forever. a single stage black wont break you but redoing 2nd line jobs will eat you up. cutting corners is cutting quality. i understand having to cut cost but paint is not the place to cut. if you do a single stage black and put enough on you can buff on it for years. just my opinon after 35 years of painting.

    i would post a pic of a black coupe done in 95 with centari but have
    nt figured it out yet.
    this was taken last year.
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  8. #23
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    if you dont want to do a paint job right now just shoot it with dp 90 and go cruzin. it'll look ok and protect it until your ready to do it up right.

  9. #24
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    If you can't get the catalyst through the dealer, take the paint to any automotive store, and see if they have a universal hardener for the type of paint it is made from.....probably synthetic enamel, or acrylic enamel.

  10. #25
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    So wait, sorry I don't really get this but where do I get this paint from and what is the brand name then? I just never heard of this paint, the only kind I know of is bc/cc and that's about it. How much is this stuff as well?
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  11. #26
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    Originally posted by HOTRODPAINT
    If you can't get the catalyst through the dealer, take the paint to any automotive store, and see if they have a universal hardener for the type of paint it is made from.....probably synthetic enamel, or acrylic enamel.
    Sorry, I misunderstood your last post. I thought you couldn't get the catalyst.

  12. #27
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    No problem.
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  13. #28
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    FMX Go with PPG single stage urethane, I believe it is the Omni brand. It is a catalyzed urethane paint, is less expensive, and does not require a clear coat. If you can't find a dealer, go to any bodyshop and find out what brand they use and what they recomend. Most bodyshops now mix their own paint from bases and pigments, and most are glad to give help and advice to "wanna-be" painters. Just be sure that you use a charcoal filter breathing mask with new filters if you are going to spray any kind of catalyzed paint. This stuff will actually "set-up" in your lungs and block off the "oxygen exchangers" inside your lungs. You then die a slow and painfull death from suffocation, because even though you can still breath in and out, the lungs can no longer pass the oxygen into your blood stream, and there is no medical procedure to fix it----you just die!!!
    Old guy hot rodder

  14. #29
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    If you intend to sand and buff a lot, a clear coat is easier, since it doesn't load up on the buff pads. Other wise I agree with using a single stage.

  15. #30
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info guys! I may try and fork out a little more money and get this thing done right, etc. How much is that single stage for primer, hardeners, base color, clear, etc like an estimated guess? The color I am not sure what I wan't to do. I would love to do a darker metallic blue color or such even though they say it's hard to lay down metallic but I gotta start sometime...

    Thanks again for anymore info!
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

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