Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Paint my 66!
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 16 to 30 of 30
  1. #16
    brianrupnow's Avatar
    brianrupnow is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Barrie-Ontario-Canada
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1931 Roadster Pickup
    Posts
    2,016

    FMX---I used a base/clear paint, Sikkens Lesonal. It cost over $1000 to paint a vehicle half the size of you truck. Way back in the day, when I started painting, I used paint from Canadian Tire (tremclad), and rustoleum paint. This stuff is cheap, has an unbelieveable gloss, and will last for about 5 years. It is great paint to learn on. The only word of caution to give regarding black, is that it is the very worst colour to show up less than perfect bodywork. The lighter a colour is, the less it will show your bodywork. Any kind of paint that is "silvery" will be a metallic. There is no naturally occuring pigment that gives a silvery colour. This colour (silver) is achieved by grinding polished aluminum into a fine powder and adding a clear binder to it to make silvery colored paint.---stay away---stay away!!!! For your first painting attempts go with a solid "organic" color.
    Last edited by brianrupnow; 06-06-2005 at 05:31 AM.
    Old guy hot rodder

  2. #17
    Troglodyte's Avatar
    Troglodyte is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    gig harbor,
    Car Year, Make, Model: 55 Chev Convert, 62 Stude GT Hawk, 64 Ve
    Posts
    305

    I remember painting my Corvette and my brothers mustang in my driveway.........nice day, no wind....wet down the concrete and let er rip........both came out great......because I was using old nitrous cellulose paint........and lacquer........both you can wet sand out the specks and bugs (lol)......both dry fast and so not much gets in them. Those were the days............haha

  3. #18
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
    FMXhellraiser is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Car Year, Make, Model: 46 Chrysler,49 Ford,66 F100,68 Lincoln
    Posts
    2,835

    Brian I will definetely check that out then! 5 years isn't too bad. That will probably be how long the semi gloss John Deere paint will last. When I do the body work on here I will make sure it's perfect. There is going to be a lot of work to do on this because the trim wholes ALL the way around the truck were bondoed in you can tell, because the wholes have cracks around them and starting to pop out. The tail gate is very bad, you can see where all the wholes were around it (no kidding there is about 50 holes at LEAST) but they aren't popped all the way through yet, just indentions.
    Right now I am between this stuff you told me about Brian or the JD stuff. The John Deere flat black isn't completely black, it's got kind of a shine to it so not THAT bad but oh well. I firgured, 22 bucks a gallon plus 14 for hardener and reducer, that is cheap. I was looking in a recent Street Rodder mag and someone did a old 30s sedan in john deere black and to tell you the truth it isn't so bad as long as you have nice chrome rims, chrome grill and bumper and chrome rear bumper to set it all off.
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  4. #19
    t0oL's Avatar
    t0oL is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    dewitt
    Car Year, Make, Model: track T (toronado drive)
    Posts
    185

    no flat

     



    man I wouldn't paint it flat unless your body work isn't ok an you have to repaint it anyway. go for gloss, you will be REAL happy with any catalyzed paint. flat has its own problems to spray, get the experience you need with a real paint, enjoy and happy birthday

  5. #20
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
    FMXhellraiser is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Car Year, Make, Model: 46 Chrysler,49 Ford,66 F100,68 Lincoln
    Posts
    2,835

    So anyone have any idea on what brand to get them for this catalyst paint or whatever that Brian and TOOL are talking about? I need to paint this thing here in the next 2 months or so when I can. The rust is comming through more now and I don't want it to spread anymore than it has.
    Any info on this paint such as where to get it, which brand, price, etc would be great. I can't really afford much here, I just need something that will get me by for now.
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  6. #21
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
    FMXhellraiser is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Car Year, Make, Model: 46 Chrysler,49 Ford,66 F100,68 Lincoln
    Posts
    2,835

    TOOL, thanks for the happy bday too man! Almost forgot to thank you, heh. See I am not THAT rude.
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  7. #22
    shine's Avatar
    shine is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    bluff dale texas
    Car Year, Make, Model: 47 inderweed
    Posts
    2,140

    i get in trouble every time i get into this. first off i owned a production van shop for 20 years. we painted 10 to 15 a day. thats a lot of laps in the booth. i do not use 2nd line paint. if you have problems they will not stand behind it. for a first time painter i would suggest centari enamel with a glamor pack . it's user friendly and last forever. a single stage black wont break you but redoing 2nd line jobs will eat you up. cutting corners is cutting quality. i understand having to cut cost but paint is not the place to cut. if you do a single stage black and put enough on you can buff on it for years. just my opinon after 35 years of painting.

    i would post a pic of a black coupe done in 95 with centari but have
    nt figured it out yet.
    this was taken last year.
    Attached Images

  8. #23
    shine's Avatar
    shine is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    bluff dale texas
    Car Year, Make, Model: 47 inderweed
    Posts
    2,140

    if you dont want to do a paint job right now just shoot it with dp 90 and go cruzin. it'll look ok and protect it until your ready to do it up right.

  9. #24
    HOTRODPAINT's Avatar
    HOTRODPAINT is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    tucson
    Posts
    3,043

    If you can't get the catalyst through the dealer, take the paint to any automotive store, and see if they have a universal hardener for the type of paint it is made from.....probably synthetic enamel, or acrylic enamel.

  10. #25
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
    FMXhellraiser is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Car Year, Make, Model: 46 Chrysler,49 Ford,66 F100,68 Lincoln
    Posts
    2,835

    So wait, sorry I don't really get this but where do I get this paint from and what is the brand name then? I just never heard of this paint, the only kind I know of is bc/cc and that's about it. How much is this stuff as well?
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  11. #26
    HOTRODPAINT's Avatar
    HOTRODPAINT is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    tucson
    Posts
    3,043

    Originally posted by HOTRODPAINT
    If you can't get the catalyst through the dealer, take the paint to any automotive store, and see if they have a universal hardener for the type of paint it is made from.....probably synthetic enamel, or acrylic enamel.
    Sorry, I misunderstood your last post. I thought you couldn't get the catalyst.

  12. #27
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
    FMXhellraiser is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Car Year, Make, Model: 46 Chrysler,49 Ford,66 F100,68 Lincoln
    Posts
    2,835

    No problem.
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  13. #28
    brianrupnow's Avatar
    brianrupnow is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Barrie-Ontario-Canada
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1931 Roadster Pickup
    Posts
    2,016

    FMX Go with PPG single stage urethane, I believe it is the Omni brand. It is a catalyzed urethane paint, is less expensive, and does not require a clear coat. If you can't find a dealer, go to any bodyshop and find out what brand they use and what they recomend. Most bodyshops now mix their own paint from bases and pigments, and most are glad to give help and advice to "wanna-be" painters. Just be sure that you use a charcoal filter breathing mask with new filters if you are going to spray any kind of catalyzed paint. This stuff will actually "set-up" in your lungs and block off the "oxygen exchangers" inside your lungs. You then die a slow and painfull death from suffocation, because even though you can still breath in and out, the lungs can no longer pass the oxygen into your blood stream, and there is no medical procedure to fix it----you just die!!!
    Old guy hot rodder

  14. #29
    HOTRODPAINT's Avatar
    HOTRODPAINT is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    tucson
    Posts
    3,043

    If you intend to sand and buff a lot, a clear coat is easier, since it doesn't load up on the buff pads. Other wise I agree with using a single stage.

  15. #30
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
    FMXhellraiser is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Car Year, Make, Model: 46 Chrysler,49 Ford,66 F100,68 Lincoln
    Posts
    2,835

    Thanks for the info guys! I may try and fork out a little more money and get this thing done right, etc. How much is that single stage for primer, hardeners, base color, clear, etc like an estimated guess? The color I am not sure what I wan't to do. I would love to do a darker metallic blue color or such even though they say it's hard to lay down metallic but I gotta start sometime...

    Thanks again for anymore info!
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

Reply To Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink