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Thread: dbu or dbc
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Darin is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    dbu or dbc

     



    Which system do you prefer , as a base ?
    DBU with reactive reducer or DBC with hardner added. I (I understand a hardner
    can be added to DBC but can't find info on this as of yet ) .PS I was told that the reactive reducer for DBU will go bad in a
    couple months if not used ( in storage)
    this is the reason I am asking youfor your opinions . I used DBU to paint my dash and wheels a couple of months ago and it turned out great but am a little worried about the reactive reducer going bad as I was told. Thanks Darin

  2. #2
    KraZy J' is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I preffer the DBC line with the DT reducer over DBU. DBU is an older line still good but not as good tech. The reactive reducer.... I don't know if it is the reducer that goes bad of the base, what happens is when you add the DRR to the DBU the DBU will curdle like the cream shot in a cement mixer. However just last month I pulled out some old DRR that my uncle gave me (it was about 1year old) and added it to new DBU and it shot just fine and looked great.

    For the money though I would go with the DBC it is a better line in my mind and isn't near as fussy as the DBU. A very USER friendly paint line. I don't know how you are planning to use the base, but in my experience a hardener is not nessesary as long as you put a clear over it.

  3. #3
    mopar978's Avatar
    mopar978 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Ok here's my opinion.

    DBU, looks a little more grainy when sprayed but dries quick and is easier to fix things as dirt, bugs etc. as it is chemically hardened, seems to stick to primer/sealer better than DBC also, so that is nice for 2 tones

    DBC sprays out nice and smooth, good for having less orange peel when done, i've never personally like DBC much at all as it seems to be gummy when you try to sand it unless you let it sit for 1/2hr or more, and have to wait longer to tape on for graphics.

    BC is what I use and prefer by far, although it is more expensive, sprays like DBC, but i think it dries out nicer, has better color match, the pearls are liquid instead of powder, sands better than DBC if you have to sand for some reason, if you paint long enough something is bound to happen sooner or later. Plus if your doing 2 tone or graphics it seems to tape much better also. unless you want to wait a long time to tape. it also seems to stick much better than DBC which is important down the road also..

    but they are all good systems you just have to learn to work with the one your going to be using, i've used DBU for yrs, then when i went to buy a system i was spraying DBC, just had to many things i didn't like to buy a system, well they had me try the new BC and i was sold on it right away.

    hope this helps ya... good luck
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  4. #4
    Darin is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks , what I was told was that if the rr goes bad you will know pretty much right away . It supposedly will look like you threw sand in the paint . As I understand it it IS the rr that can go bad not the dbu .
    This was told to me by a local supplier . The reason I would prefer a ( hardened
    base is I suppose it would be more durable and as i was told would help eliminate chance of solvent pop . As I said this was all told to me by a salesman
    . I have shot both dbu and dbc . I have had a couple of instances of solvent pop
    with dbc but not with dbu but the only thing I have painted was my wheels and
    my dash . The dbu laid on very nice .
    Mapar, since you have used dbu quite a bit , have you ever opened a can of reactive reducer and used a small amount then perhaps several months ( two to three) used that same reducer ? If so did it do ok ? The reason I am asking this is in a month or less I will be spraying my car and dont want to take a chance with the base having problems . I f there is a good chance that the rr will go bad I would certainly use dbc . The worst thing would be that I spent a bunch on the rr and it would be thrown out ,better than finding out the hard way
    I guess I want you guys to make my mind up for me

  5. #5
    mopar978's Avatar
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    Lol, i've used the drr after it sat on the shelf for a yr,, we just sprayed my bro's stang, and I haven't used dbu in a while so i was nervous but had no probs.. I had enough DBU to fill up the entire back of a full size pickup..lol... but used much of it on cheap overalls, but tossed the crappy colors.... mixed all the cool colors together.. I think you'll be fine, as i haven't had a prob yet, but people have had probs so no guarantee... but like i said My drr sat for like a yr. I used DRR1185 for most everything.
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  6. #6
    SprayTech's Avatar
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    I have been spraying DBU & DBC since they were first introduced , I know all the quirks and pit falls of both , been a PPG guy for 30 years .
    Been to all the PPG paint schools through the years to keep my all levels
    certifications for the GM dealerships and the current one I work for now up to date .

    IMO you cant find an easier product to spray then DBU.
    I still prefer DBU , its quicker , easier to repair , better color matches , NO lift cycle , ( but have seen it lift , if it the clear edge has been broken , and had to re-spot to soon , happens when you have Conan the barbarian body men ) The DRR reactive reducer is like a catalyzed base reducer and will lock the metallic & pearls , so mottling & color shifting is nill when clear is applied . Its why after a few hours to a day ( temps will determine longevity ) it turns to jello . It will lay flat if reduced and sprayed correctly .

    DBC uses the same reducer as their clears , so it makes a paint job a tad cheaper to spray . But it is more temperamental in the clear application , as if its still a tad wet , it will mottle and color shift . It does have a lift cycle if you dont use the catalyst additive . ( I think its DX 61 been awhile since I used it , its the only way I will spray DBC .)

    DRR reducer is only good for 1-3 months after opened depending on the Storage temps , you were lucky the DBU didnt turn to cottage cheese when you reduced the base . Have had it happen with old DRR reducer . So count your blessings as the Paint Gods were on your side ..LOL

    mopar978 a ?
    The BC your referring to ? Are you talking the PPG's Global line ?
    I demoed it several years ago , and liked the wet on wet application , as it makes for faster turn around time in a production shop , but they still didnt have the color matches down to my liking .

    SprayTech

  7. #7
    mopar978's Avatar
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    Yeah the Global line... i've had much luck with color matching with it.. seems to match better than the others.. although i do say as you that the DBU is better than DBC i was always sold on the DBU unil i tried the BC.
    In my opionion the Dbu is one of the best, and as far as mottling goes i've never really had a prob with that in dbu but i have alot with dbc, and some with the bc, i'm still trying to work this prob out,, the last time i sprayed galaxy silver i over reduced my last few coats and it fixed my prob, so we will see if it is consistant..
    also what's the secret for laying dbu out really smooth.. i never could get it as smooth as i can the bc
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  8. #8
    Darin is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Well, my mind is made up, I will go with dbu even if i I have to buy a new can of rr. Mabye this means nothing but funny how we use epoxy with activator , filler
    with hardner 2k primers, sealers with activator and clear with activator but not the base . It just makes sense to me to
    have a base with hardner .

  9. #9
    SprayTech's Avatar
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    Originally posted by mopar978
    Yeah the Global line... i've had much luck with color matching with it.. seems to match better than the others.. although i do say as you that the DBU is better than DBC i was always sold on the DBU unil i tried the BC.
    In my opionion the Dbu is one of the best, and as far as mottling goes i've never really had a prob with that in dbu but i have alot with dbc, and some with the bc, i'm still trying to work this prob out,, the last time i sprayed galaxy silver i over reduced my last few coats and it fixed my prob, so we will see if it is consistant..
    also what's the secret for laying dbu out really smooth.. i never could get it as smooth as i can the bc
    I dont go by color names , but if you would of said 5451 PPG code # I would of known exactly the color you were referring too ......LOL
    I must spray that color 20 times a week .
    Have way to many GM 4 digit PPG numbers in my head as it is .

    SprayTech

  10. #10
    mopar978's Avatar
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    That is a lot of one color spraying
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  11. #11
    SprayTech's Avatar
    SprayTech is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Its not the only color I spray , its just one of the popular colors , that seem to come in that are wrecked .......LOL

    The others are the Charcoals , the tri- stage reds , tri- stage white pearls , the beige metallics .
    I wont list all the PPG numbers I remember from last week .

    I work for a Cadillac , Pontiac , Buick , GMC dealership , so I get to spray several of the same flavors over and over , along with a few Ford , chrysler, and foreigns thrown in too .

    Spray

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