Thread: Lead fill instead of Bondo... Any tips?

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Well just to be different I will mention that if you have a blow torch (the old fashioned kind), a metal bucket and a VERY LARGE soldering iron of the type used to set up copper flashing on expensive house roof gutters you should be able to SOLDER small areas. All I can say is that years ago I dechromed a '47 Ford convertible and filled in all the small clip holes with a little tinning acid (muriatic, diluted HCl) and soldered them shut. In fact I learned this from my uncle who was formerly a "roof gutter man" and used his soldering iron which had a large tip about 5" long and 2"x2" thick so it could hold heat for a long time. When we got to the large hole where I took out the trunk handle (about 3/4" diameter) we cut out a scrap metal plug about the size of a nickel and soldered it in holding it from the back with a piece of wood. This is apparently a lost art today with propane torches and such but if you can find a large soldering iron and an old fashioned blowtorch (gas or kerosene) with a hand pump, just put the blowtorch on full in the bucket and set the soldering iron in the flame for 10 minutes and you should be able to tin sheet steel and add lead to small spots as needed. The paint (GM Aztec Red over primer) stayed on for the three years I had the car thereafter (any tiny imperfections in the paint were not visible because the orange-red was so dazzling, it wearied one's eyes to look at it!).

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Originally posted by brianrupnow
Hey Pat---I've already been yelled at once today, but "in for a penny, in for a pound"-----thats a vixen file, (as in female fox) not a vexin file. Yeah, I know---picky, picky,---picky.

sorry i can not spell good enough for you . on the lead yes if you do not know how to do it then do not .i do .and have for a long time so i do not need some one telling me it will not work it has been on my car for over 25 years i would say thats a dam good test of time

Pat---Didn't the big 3 auto companies use lead in the seams at the point where the roof attached and at the drip rails for at least 50 years? I don't remember that ever being a problem area for paint adhesion.

Originally posted by brianrupnow
Pat---Didn't the big 3 auto companies use lead in the seams at the point where the roof attached and at the drip rails for at least 50 years? I don't remember that ever being a problem area for paint adhesion.

yes they did up to the 80s and on the rockers to on some. any were they needed a finsh joint and it did the job very well

Thanks for all the tips!

I think I'll try the lead. Sounds like fun and I love a challenge.
So you don't think I can use a propane torch? I was hoping I could because my oxygen tank is missing.
I did straighten the running board as much as possible, its VERY thick (16 gauge!) and must be the hardest metal ever made for automotive. I pounded on that thing for hours (I'm sure my neighbors love me) and ended up having to use heat to get any real movement. I figure thats my penance for wrecking it when I was drunk at 17. Great upper body workout, though.
I am going with a dull, textured powder coat so I don't think any tiny imperfections will be noticeable. I'm not that picky anyway. I am choosing powder coat for the durability. I have a scrap door that I can practice on, it's thinner so if I can get good on that, the running board will probably be easier.

You guys are great to take the time to share your knowledge. There sure is a lot of talent out there!

Hugs,
Eileen

i have used a propane torch for leading or the bernzomatic mapp/propane. it will only need to get just hot enough to melt the lead and that is all . the mix . lead alloy will melt at diferent temps.

Cool, I have some MAPP gas. I'm going to try TrueValue for the lead supplies, so far that little store has never failed me. And the employees there are actually helpful!

Ok well if you go with lead then first think about this. With powder coating you will have the oven set to 400-420 degree's. First you will put the part in it with NO powder for about 10-20 minutes on the 350-400 degrees and then after that depending on the color it will be in the 400 degree's for 30-40 minutes. That is a long time for lead to get that hot and sit there, will it melt? Also when I say the oven to 400 I mean the oven will be hotter, you need to get the METAL part to 400 degree's not just the oven. The part itself has to reach to that temp in order for a correct cure. Some parts take 30 minutes and some 40. All depends. That is something to think about and make sure if you are powder coating it yourself (which I don't know if you said you are or not) that you use a IR Thermometer to measure the part temp.....
Someone on here can tell you if it will melt since I don't know. Sound's like to me it will and even if it doesn't then it sounds like to me that it will SOMEWHAT get out of form or something. Even if it doesn't then you may want to make sure the powder will stick to the lead and not peel, chip or crack easily.

Yes, I will definitely double check with the powdercoating shop before starting.

FMX, that is a good point because the melting point of pure Lead is about 327.5 degrees C or 621.5 F and the melting point of various solders can be different depending on how much tin is added to the Lead.

http://www.ensil.com/Database/DB-Ele...er%20Melt.html

Is the powder coat oven temp in C or F?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

I prefer lead when I have to fill in high contact areas,such as your running boards,or door edges,wheel lips etc. On your running boards, unless they are smooth,you'll have a hard time trying to smooth out any filler. Why not use your torch to heat the metal to make it elastic and gently tap out the damage. If you try just shrinking you will be amazed at how much damage it can bring out.

the more tin the lower the melting point pure lead would have the hire melting point but 400 temp for powder coating ?at 300 temp lead would work but not by much there difrent mixs of lead solder some have tin and some bismuth in them so you would need to know the make up and the point of it melting. eastwood makes a no lead body solder that works like lead but is lead free and works like lead and can be powder coated

Don, that 400 is in F. For chrome or gloss black colors it is 385-400 F for 25 minutes. I am pretty sure lead wont work and I wouldn't even take the chance of trying it. Use the stuff RECOMMENDED for powder coating like Lad Metal or the stuff Pat said and be on the safe side.

I'm with Pat, use the stuff that is made to be powdercoated over. Why make a simple task more difficult that it has to be??????????

Originally posted by Dave Severson
I'm with Pat, use the stuff that is made to be powdercoated over. Why make a simple task more difficult that it has to be??????????

Maybe he want's a "Lead Slead".