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Thread: Putting theshine to it
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    akrateffil's Avatar
    akrateffil is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1956 Plymouth Savoy, 1948 Plymouth 2 doo
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    Putting the shine to it

     



    Winter is setting in and during the garage season I am wanting to bring the shine out in the paint. When I bought the car this past summer, I was told it has about 10 coats of clear on it (we'll see). The car looks like it had been wet sanded for there is no orange peeling. The paint appears very flat. My question - How can I get this car to shine like it is 10inches deep? Thanks, Andy
    Last edited by akrateffil; 11-26-2005 at 05:02 AM.

  2. #2
    HOTRODPAINT's Avatar
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    It sounds like you probably don't have any equipment. I'd talk with the local auto stores about buying a low speed polisher, and see what kind of polish they recommend to use with it. By the time you go over the car thoroughly with it, it should look more like what you have in mind.

  3. #3
    akrateffil's Avatar
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    I have a 7" dual speed grinder / buffer that has speeds of 1800 and 700 rpm, as well as, a typical DA style buffer (the kind you would by from sears for polishing a car). My fear is I will harm the paint that is only in need of a little TLC.

  4. #4
    HOTRODPAINT's Avatar
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    Go to the body shop supply, and buy a foam pad setup. Use this on low speed, stay off of the edges, and you probably can't hurt the paint, unless it's too thin.

    When I switched away from the wool pads, I almost stopped having any problems at all, and the finish comes up quicker. Also, the low speed takes a little longer, but helps keep you out of trouble.

  5. #5
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
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    Look for the episode of TRUCKS where Stacey goes over how to buff and polish your old scratched paint. VERY good small tips on it and should help you get on your feet. Don't use a grinder. I noticed you said it's a grinder and buffer..... It's either a grinder or a polisher/buffer not both. And like HOTRODPAINT said, STAY AWAY FROM EDGES!
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  6. #6
    HOTRODPAINT's Avatar
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    I think they have marketed some tools as "dual purpose" grinder buffers. Whatever you use, try to run it on a low speed, if possible, until you get some experience with it.

    I actually use what is called a vertical sander for my buffing. It is an infinitely variable speed air tool. I got use to using one that one of my employees had, and I've used it ever since. :-)

  7. #7
    vt1992s10's Avatar
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    from the RPMs that you describe it sounds like a regular buffer. I run between 1200-1400 rpm using a foam pad from 3M, if they are very light surface scratches us a gloss formula, and for the deeper go to 3M diamond cut to medium cut then to heavy cut for the really really deep scratches. like everyone said previously stay away or go really light on edges because that is where paint/ clear coat is going to be the thinnest. remember after buffing you need to apply a coat of wax.

    from my own experiance(I work at a honda dealership in recon) go very light on plastic bumper covers because they heat up a lot quicker therefor burn or fold the paint over.

    personally I find that the 3m products seem to give the best results compared to the other products that I have tried
    Last edited by vt1992s10; 11-29-2005 at 03:12 PM.
    1992 S-10 V-8 350 hedman longtubes, edlebrock intake, holley 750, holley red pump, lowered 2/3, etc

  8. #8
    fordsfairlane's Avatar
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    if you'r afraid to use a buffer on the car . you could always do it by hand. its a safe way and when your done you'r arms will feel like jelly.

    I never use a buffer, I prefer hand buffing.
    and 3m's machine glaze top off with a good wax.

    my arms dont like it but it looks way better, no swirl marks.

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