Thread: Requesting very basic paint info.

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I am giving some thought to possibly painting my 53 F100. Over the years I have read rod magazine articles on painting and quite frankly fine them confusing when it comes to the different paints available. I am asking if someone could list the type paints available with information pertinent to that type paint. For some unknown reason something in the following format could clear up allot of confusion in my mind.

(example)
lacquer: used in the 50's & 60's, very fast drying, lacquer thinner used as a reducer, very high VOC's, and no longer recommended or even available in many areas. (not sure if this is totally accurate but this is my take on lacquer)

enamel: slow drying, reduced with ???, are hardeners used? does it require color sanding and buffing?? Is it used today? I am confused!

acrylic enamel: totally confused how this is different from enamel etc.

urethane: again, totally confused.

Are there other type paints?

Can all of these be topcoated with a clear coat or should some not ever be topcoated? Are all topcoats a 2 component?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Today the entire industry is moving to urethane enamels. They have become the backbone, have many advantages, and you can get anything you need at many locations.

As far as which urethane system you choose, that depends on what you want to achieve. Are you an experienced painter and bodyman?, want long life?, easy repairs?, graphics included?, metallic or pearl colors?, how straight is the body work?, is it a work truck too?, what kind of climate do you live in?, is it a show truck?,and so on.

Give us a description of what you are trying to do, and we'll try to help.

Body and especially paint work is learned by trial and error and $$$.To save yourself alot of the above you should seriously consider taking a course in auto painting.You will save a lot of headaches not to mention $$$$$.In 2 to 3 months i think you could have the understanding and confidence to take on your paint job with the knowledgr to avoid making mistakes.Time and money well invested.Not to mention the hook ups with others interested in painting also,hell,usually you can use your shop time to work on your project with the instructor there to bail you out in a bind.

Originally posted by chingon
Body and especially paint work is learned by trial and error and $$$.To save yourself alot of the above you should seriously consider taking a course in auto painting.You will save a lot of headaches not to mention $$$$$.In 2 to 3 months i think you could have the understanding and confidence to take on your paint job with the knowledgr to avoid making mistakes.Time and money well invested.Not to mention the hook ups with others interested in painting also,hell,usually you can use your shop time to work on your project with the instructor there to bail you out in a bind.

That's a great suggestion!

F100,
Lacquers you are correct on , out dated paint system for sure .
Alkyd Enamels , Used proper temp reducers , and a catalyst , for crosslinking ( drying ) What you see is what you got , sanding and rubbing did nothing for the shine . Out dated too .

Acrylic Enamels , Used proper temp. Reducers , and a catalyst for crosslinking ( drying ) If you learned to spray them well you could float the resins to the top to give a high quality shine .
Getting out dated too .

Acrylic Urethanes , use proper temp reducers , and a catalyst , what is used mostly today for Single Stage .

Base Coat Acrylic Urethanes , uses a proper temp reducer , no catalyst . Requires a Clear Coat for UV Protection , which requires proper temp reducers , and catalyst . Some fast spot Clears use no reducers , just Catalyst.
This is what also gives the base color its shine .
These are what most all shops nation wide spray today .
More user friendly , but more costly.

There is also a Water Born Base Coat System , but is high dollar and requires special equipment to spray properly , Humidity is its downfall .

Also Polyurethane's but not used in the automotive field much , more air craft line product . Duponts Imron was a Polyurethane , and in its day was an excellent product , but not used much any more .
These also used a reducer and catalyst .
All these products are highly toxic and require a proper Spray mask to spray them !!!!!!


Hope this shed some light on the subject

SprayTech

urethane is the way to go, go to a NAPA store and get the info. on TECH BASE and read,understand,and follow instructions to the "T". or sherwin williams ULTRA 7000 . both of these products are base coat, clear coat 2 part applications. it takes more work, but the finish blows laquer and acrylic enamel out of the water!!! if you need more information email BELAIR MIKE PS. I have experience with both of these paints.