Thread: I got to hand to to HOTRODPAINT and others

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if anybody is contimplating about primer types, go with a catalyzed primer. (QUOTE)

As the other painters here will tell you, the best thing about these two-part primers is that they are an extremely stable "barrier coat". The layer of primer is extremely difficult for any solvent to penetrate through. Back in the "old days" you might have it look good after priming, but as you continue to stack layers, suddenly the solvents get into something under the primer, and it starts wrinkling! Another thing that used to happen is that after the paint ages for a few days or weeks, solvents underneath escape leaving old sand scratches, or the "ghost" of old damage or repairs showing! Not now!

BTW, I use a less expensive primer made by MarHyde, a company that produces industrial products. After about 10 years I can report NO problems. If you are interested, it is called "Ultimate" primer. I use 2-6 coats, allow overnight dry, guide coat and block it flat with 360, then I can do whatever I want on top without worry.

A little info on some of these Catalyzed Primers , Some are not ment to be sprayed over large areas of bare metal , May need to spray an Etching primer down first .
Check with your jobber when you buy .
Nothing wrong knowing everything you can about the product .

Absolutely SprayTech.

I was told/taught when you have bare metal, a lot of bare metal, spray down a coat of self-etch first, then go from there.