Thread: A yellow '34, and an odd happening.

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The '34: I finally got all three coats of clear on the '34. I used about twice the reducer that S/W recommended. 4:2:1 instead of 4:1:1. It went on OK, but there's still more orange peel than I would like. I would say that the car is now about a 15 footer. Any closer, and it's not that good. Oh well, I've got a good buffer, some 1000 and 2000 sandpaper and an air-conditioned garage. Photos later.

The odd happening: I had my paint gun disassembled, and was cleaning around the tip when I heard a "CLINK." At the time I was looking at the tip through my bifocals. When I looked up to see what the sound was, this is what I saw. There were no tools being used, no air pressure around, nothing moving at all. Maybe going from the cool house to the hot garage did it. Very odd . . .

Turn down your stereo.

Don

I had that happen to me once ...
I told her I couldn't go out with her . LOL

Or..
"you were staring to hard."

Classic thermal expansion induced crack due to delta - T at the stress concentration ...........

Or your paint job is that ugly, which I strongly doubt

Kitz

you have been looking at your paint job to hard.

Well here is your chance to make lemonade out of lemons. I have had lucite lenses for years for laboratory safety, but I am sick of the bifocal "line". The answer is to now get omnifocals made out of lucite instead of glass. I rely on the lucite lenses when using the grinder and I know metal flakes have hit the lens several times. The lucite does scratch but will take quite a beating without breaking. Whatever the reason for the crack, it does look like the crack goes along the bifocal boundary. My next set of lenses will be the kind that has a rounded transition between the two ranges and in lucite.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don,

I can't wear the lineless bifocals. They drive me crazy. Also, these are not glass. They're High Refractive Index plastic. Polycarbonate, I believe.

Kitz,

I think it blew up out of pure frustration with laying on the clear. All I know is I need new glasses, and I have a LOT of sanding and buffing in my future.

Maybe it was the ricer that went by with the tin can muffler . . .

Jack/Henry, that is interesting; I have never known the polycarbonate type to fracture. However there is a phenomenon in which polymers swell up when they absorb some solvents. Maybe the paint solvent was invasive to the polycarbonate even though it does seem like a hardened material. Gee I thought the lineless multifocals were the answer; now I'll have to "look into" that situation further before I get my next glasses (long overdue).

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Is it my imaganation, or does clearcoat level out over a couple of days? It seems much smoother and has less orange peel than it did the morning after I sprayed it.

Oh, and the scoop on the lens. Apparently acetone is death on my type of polymer lens. Looks like I splashed a bit when I was cleaning the gun. POP goes the lens.

thinners are working out of the paint

Makes sense. I just didn't remember it making that much of a difference. Looks like there's a large part of the car that won't take much more than a hit with 2000 or 2500, then a good buff. Other areas will need a bit of 1000 before the 2000. This may work out after all.

I will probably NEVER paint another car. Love mechanics . . . hate bodywork & paint.

Gut pic's of the yellow glass's breaker?

Some photos of the '34 in yellow . . . and what happens to your nice workbench when you paint in your garage.

The yellow streaks on the drawers came from "burping" the paint gun with a little too much pressure. I don't suppose anyone else has done that.

Undercoated the '34 today. It was still wet, so I hung it up . . . I used Wesley's Rubberized Undercoat. As "nicely" as Gibbon finishes the underside of the body, it was the only option. Got orange peel in it too.

Ohh noo......we never spill paint. :-) The car looks pretty good.