Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: body filler
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    madgrinder's Avatar
    madgrinder is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Nashville, baby!
    Car Year, Make, Model: '64 Galaxie 500XL
    Posts
    304

    body filler

     



    OK, so if paint is porous, and primer is certainly porous, and body filler is porous...

    Wouldn't sanding to the metal before applying filler create a direct path for moisture to rust the underlying metal????
    Ensure that the path of least resistance is not you...

  2. #2
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
    Bob Parmenter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Salado
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32, 40 Fords,
    Posts
    10,869

    That's why it's important to use a sealer too. It's the difference between a quality job and a quicky or hack job.
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

    It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.

    Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.

  3. #3
    SprayTech's Avatar
    SprayTech is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Wichita
    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford tudor humpback
    Posts
    695

    Paint isnt porus, its why we use paint, to seal off the primer sealer, so moisture doesnt penetrate to the metal.

    You dont have to put bodo directly to sanded bare steel, PPG recomends to put down their DP epoxy sealer down first ( over bare metal) before you apply your body filler.( Trust me I've been to enough of their schools to know ).

    I see you live in FLA. where Humidity is high, I wouldnt leave my bare steel open for very long as it will start surface rusting pretty quick.


    Spray

  4. #4
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
    Bob Parmenter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Salado
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32, 40 Fords,
    Posts
    10,869

    Hey Spray, maybe he's thinking about our old friend Mr. Lacquer.
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

    It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.

    Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.

  5. #5
    SprayTech's Avatar
    SprayTech is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Wichita
    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford tudor humpback
    Posts
    695

    Thats usually what 22 coats of hand rubbed lacquer looks like INDEED............LOL

    What most people never figured out with lacquer was , the LEAST amont of material was alot better!!

    I havent used lacquers since PPG developed the Deltron line back in 1981.

    Spray

  6. #6
    76GMC1500 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    1,176

    Those 2 part epoxy primers seal nicely. I took my truck to bare metal and was priming and doing body work, but I ran out of money. The epoxy is holding up very well to moisture. The places I used etching primer to cover bondo when I'm not done filling, but need to drive rusts through in about a week or two and a have to sand it all off. Only prob with the epoxy is it loads up your paper if you try to sand it, unlike the etcher.

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink