Thread: couple questions

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ok i have a devilbiss JGA-502 siphon feed sprayer. now its not HVLP but with the right fluid nozzle is this gun capable of a decent paint job?

and ive been looking at single stage paints, what are your opinions on single stage?

and whats the best way to clean out the paint cups? i have primer stuck in there where it dried up
thanks guys
steve

Originally Posted by muteboy49

ok i have a devilbiss JGA-502 siphon feed sprayer. now its not HVLP but with the right fluid nozzle is this gun capable of a decent paint job?

HVLP's are fairly new and do not waste paint like a siphon gun 15 - 35% with 65 to 85% waste. HVLP's are about the opposite.

To answer your question, yes an OK gun, a good siphon works fine

and ive been looking at single stage paints, what are your opinions on single stage?

SS are cheaper, don't have the depth of gloss, are not as UV or chip resistant

and whats the best way to clean out the paint cups? i have primer stuck in there where it dried up.

If it's stuck in the cup, it's in the gun as well. Try thinner, a bristle brush and a cloth first. If that doesn't work, send it out for professional cleaning, or throw it away and start over with an HVLP. Harbor Freight has a very good cheapy - #43430 (Purple) that is always on sale for $35 to $49. I have heard that it has been replaced though by a piece of crap.
thanks guys

steve

Steve, don't try to do too much an 'economy' job - it always comes back to bite your hindside

well i cleaned the gun but the primer kinda gunked up in the cup
and as far as single stage, im not looking for a super nice job and single stage is better (for now) ad far as where my trucks at and where im spraying
and ill have to look at harbor freight sometime
thanks man
steve

look at PPG Delstar Polyeurethane Accrylic Enamel, it's reasonably priced single stage, it requires an activator to work properly, tho many cheap accrylics do not require hardener, Delstar Does, course it's not the cheapest ither. if you feel the need, you can clear over Delstar.

yeah my teacher reccomended PPG single stage black
and he said to give it some depth he likes to mix in some clear in the last coat

You can use a single stage from PPG and get a clear with compatable activators and you can lay your single stage and put the clear over that and it's like base coat clear coat but cheaper and still not bad lasting. Some people have their oppinions on this option but we do this at the shop on some old cars when the guys aren't too worried about 8-12 years down the road what the vehicle looks like.
Or you can check out www.southerpolyurethanes.com and they have a few color choices and primers, clears, etc for a cheap price but the product is GREAT. That is a base coat clear coat deal there but I think they have single stage as well. It's kind of a new company (not that new anymore) but that is one reason their price is low I am thinking and customer service is very good.

FMX

Linky no Worky

Don't forget your resperator.

Originally Posted by FMXhellraiser

Or you can check out www.southerpolyurethanes.com and they have a few color choices and primers, clears, etc for a cheap price but the product is GREAT. That is a base coat clear coat deal there but I think they have single stage as well. It's kind of a new company (not that new anymore) but that is one reason their price is low I am thinking and customer service is very good.

If you call Southern Polyurethanes you will talk to the owner, BarryK - although he is a bit opinionated about his product, he can at least give you excellant direction if you choose to use something else.

Just a word of warning though - ALL hardeners contain ISOCYANATES as well as many base coats and are dangerous. A supplied fresh air system is required !!!! DO NOT rely on a 1/2 face mask and charcoal filters - they are not enough.

As far as a gunked up gun - either clean it or get a new one - it is not worth the aggravation. Great gobs of crap or a bunch of runs or dry spots will totally screw up your mind, as well as your vehicle. Read the various posts here in this forum or here: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/body-exterior/ (the 'competition' - BarryK is a regular contributor here - he just took me to task on a question)

Yes he is right. Barry is a very helpful guy. Of course he will be oppinionated on his product though just like anyone else would. Sorry, add a n on the link. WWW.Southernpolyurethanes.com

pull the gun apart, down to the last washer, put the whole thing in a tin of thinners overnite, get some really thin soft wire and tear up towel into very thin strips to make pull thru's like for a rifle. scrub every thing clean and put it back together.
I bought a JGA xxx 25 YEARS AGO AND ITS STILL PAINTING CARS.
after every session , pull off the pot, clean it out and add a bit of thinners and blow thru gun on high pressure, good to go for the next time and you will never ever need to clean the gun again if you flush it out every time..
N.B. every time you finish with the gun take off the air cap,unscrew the mixture head and wipe the end of the needle. The cap and head should be stored in the pot ,attached to the gun ,with enough thinners to cover them until the next time you need the gun.

1. yes i have a respirator lol
2. yeah my teacher said the isocyanates are bad but the school doesnt make us use the fresh air masks or anything like that we use the regular respirators
3. i have the actual gun clean but the pot has like built up dry primer in there (from SOMEEEONE leaving primer in there for like 3 weeks haha)
whats the best way to clean that
4. yeah a painter i know said that my gun would be OK but it def. needs a larger fluid nozzle it has like a 3 inch fan pattern

Originally Posted by muteboy49

1. yes i have a respirator lol
2. yeah my teacher said the isocyanates are bad but the school doesnt make us use the fresh air masks or anything like that we use the regular respirators

I do disagree with your instructor, but...
Just make sure the CHARCOAL NIOSH filters are NEW - that is less than 8 hours of use. Also, when you store the mask, make sure you remove the filter carts and store them in an ait tight baggie. They do deteriorate in air.

3. i have the actual gun clean but the pot has like built up dry primer in there (from SOMEEEONE leaving primer in there for like 3 weeks haha)
whats the best way to clean that.

If it's your gun, and you can't clean with thinner and a kit, go to your local auto paint store and have it professionally cleaned and rebuilt - it's still a better gun than any Harbor Freight gun

4. yeah a painter i know said that my gun would be OK but it def. needs a larger fluid nozzle it has like a 3 inch fan pattern

Not sure what he means - fan width is controlled on the gun. If it's a siphon, the paint output is still a gun control

yeah he told us to use a fresh air if we get a job painting but he said with the stuff we're painting (fenders and flat panels) we should be good,
and i know the fan pattern is adjustable on the gun but the cap is a .30 (i think and when i took it to painter supply they said id need a new air cap, fluid nozzle and needle

yes a jga is probably one of the best older guns, Iused them for yrs. IMO for
the money your'e gonna pay for the parts and your'e using non/metallic paint
just go buy the hvlp at harbor freight(49.95) sale price.It works fine for solid
colors.As for single stage PPG is great, I'm about to do one with Delstar 9000
I like the color sand buffed single stage better that basecoat clearcoat. I do have cars that are clear coat(metallic colors)So don't think I'm against that, it
made painters out of a lot people that couldn't lay down a good wet coat.
It's all what you like, there are a lot of cars with good quality single stage
paint jobs rubbed out that a 15-20 yrs old that are taken care of Ron