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Thread: A quick question on paint
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    stylingZ is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Question A quick question on paint

     



    How much paint would you say it would take to do an excellent job on a frame, rear end & housing, plus the cross members? I am just trying to get an idea what I am looking at. I am not talking about the whole ball of wax including reducers & etc., but just paint. Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    HOTRODPAINT's Avatar
    HOTRODPAINT is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    If you have a colored sealer underneath, and an HVLP gun, I would say a couple quarts would do it.

  3. #3
    Irelands child's Avatar
    Irelands child is offline Registered User Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by stylingZ
    How much paint would you say it would take to do an excellent job on a frame, rear end & housing, plus the cross members? I am just trying to get an idea what I am looking at. I am not talking about the whole ball of wax including reducers & etc., but just paint. Thanks in advance!
    Ya gotta factor in primers (and labor) - they are about as costly as the paint - 2 qts of epoxy primer and 2 qts of 2K are going to set you back in the neighborhood of $200 if you use Southern Polyurethanes - about twice as much more for DuPont or PPG. You can't skimp here and use acrylics - this is the area that sees all of the crap weather. Six to 700 dollars for paint (plus labor$$) vs. a 4 to 500 dollar powdercoat job was the reason I went with the powdercoat. They also sand blasted it clean to near white before they coated everything.
    Dave

  4. #4
    stylingZ is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I was just wondering how much paint it would take out of curiousity to do the frame thinking 2 or 3 quarts. I am going to go with PPG cobalt blue which is supposed to be the same as the Saturn Ion color called Electric Blue Metalic. The aforementioned color is the top color (color on the hood & along the top of the doors plus down the rear of the rumble seat until the roll pan) of my 30 A-bone and the color on the sides/steel fenders is PPG Silver Dollar metalic. Not sure whether to go old style flames (not the large over powering ones, but something like Iceburg) or to go with true fire/realistic flames. I have the Hagan hood with two scoops on each side panel (that area will be removed & have SS grills installed) thinking some flames coming out of their might be something to consider too. I probably won't be at the painting stage until April 07 so I am just planning ahead.

  5. #5
    HOTRODPAINT's Avatar
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    Not sure whether to go old style flames (not the large over powering ones, but something like Iceburg) or to go with true fire/realistic flames. (QUOTE)

    I've been in the "biz" for a long time. My gut feeling is that the realfire/trufire flames are being done so much that they will be "out-of-style" in a couple more years. Remember how fast the color shifting paints disappeared?....and where have the tribal graphics gone?

    More traditional flames are kind of "timeless". They will always be classic to most enthusiasts. If you want something classy, and unique, I would base it on that style, and add a unique touch to make them.....well.....unique.

  6. #6
    mopar978's Avatar
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    I agree what all you said, except that I think the realistic fire will become the next timeless item.
    CHOP IT UP!!!!!!!
    Click to check my paint
    http://photobucket.com/albums/c216/chadsbodyshop49119/

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