Thread: how bad is it

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ok after not being able to work on my truck for awhile. I went to the shop the other day to get back to work. Most of my body work is done. I found surface rust on the baremetal areas. Will there be a problem with my already finished body work. Bare filler no primer. was put over bare metal that was prepped.
I know there are a few that insist prime before filler and some who dont.
I am worried i will have to remove all my body work and start all over.

Can the rust be under the filler also, or am I ok to just clean the metal areas back up and procede?
Thanks
Dave

Originally Posted by DaveMax

Can the rust be under the filler also, ...........?
Thanks
Dave

Absolutely! It's just like a sponge, very porous. That's why experienced folk seal the filler as soon as the work is completed. Some will epoxy prime first and then fill, others don't................but if you don't you have to seal the filler asap.

i would say it would have to do with how damp the filler got rust on the steel how bad? can you cut the rust with 120 grit in one pass by hand? or would it take 80 grit with a d,a if so at lest cut it back and refeather the filler. if bad you will see the rust work the feather end of the filler .if not it may be ok it is allways a good idle to put something on filler if it will set to seal it somewhat of air born junk oils and moister

great!!!!!
looks like i will be starting all over again.
it is light rust, i am hoping to remove some of the the feathering and find clean metal underneath.
if not, i have alot of work to do. I have already skim coated the body and got alot finished. if its bad, i might just scrap the whole project. never have time to work on it anyway.
70 f100 all trim and body seams welded and smoothed. drip edge removed.
Got any C4?

Don't give up yet!!
If you have to restrip to bare metal, lay down a good coat of epoxy primer. There are several pretty good ones out there now. I used Nason to begin with but it becomes so hard that it is difficult to work with. I found a small company, Southern Polyurethanes (SPI) that lays down nicely, is fairly easy to sand and protects the bare metal. Then, when you have more time, you can just scuff the epoxy with 180 or 220, do your filler work, then 2K and your final BC/CC. Nice thing about SPI, you give them a call and you talk to the owner, Barry - super customer service guy. They do have a web site. I've had to call him 3 times about my errors and when done, know exactly how to procede. If you epoxy first, then any time interruption doesn't cause grief and aggravation. You don't have to worry about any porous filler sucking up water, rusting and eventually 'popping'. I'm caught with cold weather and my car sits waiting for a 'balmy' 50deg day so I can do some more painting - and am not worried about rust.

Now you know why they say to epoxy prime it first.

Sand the rust off, epoxy prime and build it up with primer. Its not the end of the world.

ive got ppg epoxy primer, just need to apply it. did the body work over bare metal, because at the time the majority said that was the better way.
my new sheet metal brake is starting to color also. atleast i was able to spray it with oil.
as slow as i am with body work, it took me over a month to do what i did the first time. i have a bad habbit of over sanding, and then having to reapply.
oh well, live and learn i guess.
just shove it in a corner until i feel like messing with it.