Thread: best primers

Tweet

Ok i've searched and read alot about primers. My experience all comes from production type work over 17 years ago.

I've read where some call it 2K and some call it epoxy. I thought these were one and the same. Now days they offer so many for different purposes it has me spinning like old enamal fumes .

I want to put down a good base and rust protectant but will be easily readied for paint when that time comes. As it will most likely sit for a spell before i do any paint work. I've shot a few of the b/c systems but today seems like so much has changed.

Primers were scuffed and color coated and cleared . With the new clears coming out in the 80's we would apply a primer -scuff then a sealer and just color coat over it and clear when we thought there may be a material match problem..

My area we have Dupont-Diamont-Sherwin williams-R-M paints available.

ppg works good and sherwin williams have used them and off brands that they said they were just as good as ppg or dupont you know the b.s but if you are going to keep it then buy namebrand primer and a good prep will keep it lasting for along time .just do not let some one tell you that you can fill bad body work with bad sand scratchs it will come back on you

Just to deal with your comment about 2K and epoxy, epoxy primers are ground coats applied directly to bare metal and/or over filler work. They are often also used as sealers over pre-existing finishes that will be painted over. For example the PPG product is DP XX (the XX means there are a variety of different numbers that denote color, e.g. 90 is black). These primers are meant to seal the metal/filled surface in preparation for sandable primer/surfacers which the term 2K generally refers to. Again to use the best known product, PPG, that would be the K XX product (again the XX represents a number code that denotes color, e.g. 36 is grey). These are generally polyester based products that give a "high build" for the purpose of block sanding to smooth the body surface in prep for top coats

Great simple reply!

the way i did many paint jobs was etch primer then a epoxy followed up by a build type like a 2k and i mixed brands at the time .i like duponts and sherwin williams etch primers and used aDP 40or 90 the hi fill primers from ppg or williams and top coated with ppg paint at that time ppg did not have the best etch primer but did use the dps from ppg but they did not lock up like the acid etch primers from dupont or williams to steel did some very basic test panels to back this up with many jobs done this way #1 wash primer/ acid etch #2 the dp 40 gray green dp90 black i like the 40 just seamed to cover better and they made like said more colors. then #3 a hi fill primer i used ppg or i like said williams then i would tint the last 3 coats to color of the top coat and sand up to #600 wet dry i allways like the sanded final primer to be sanded before for the color that is if you what dead flat paint job but did thinned the dp and put just a coat of dp to seal the primer . i was not trying not to go here and how or what i did .just to tell you that the 2ks will not do all the filling and fixing of work then you would be ok with any of the name brands

Thanks Guys

A lttle clearer now that products havent run over each other. I'm preping for spring when i give its first coat over bare steel .

For what its worth , do not mix and match products today .
Choose a product and stick with it from start to finish as if you have any thing go wrong with say : lifting , bleed through , non -adhesion , die back ...ect no one will stand behind it as they will say did you use our product through and through ?
Materials are very expensive today and can you afford to purchase it all over again to fix it a second time ?

Not saying it can not be done but its good insurance if you use one product line and stick with it , as help will be easier coming if needed

Materials from different companies are formulated to use as a system and not all brands have the same chemical makeup for their products .

yes your are right that is why said i did not want to add what i used and how i did it but ??? all of the paint jobs i did are still on the cars trucks and air planes and like i said we did test panles for the etch

i will stay with one line the same paint supply store and employee's are still all there .

One added question i read where they say add a couple ounces of laquer thinner to 2K and it sprays out smoother by thinning it some anyone doing this .

Lacquer thinner added to 2K does make it spray out smoother, but you will be sanding so who cares. It is not worth possibly causing an adhesion problem. It is thick for a reason, to fill. Using 1.4 fluid tip and needle should allow you to spray without causing to much orange peel.

Great Thank you . Never working with it before i dont know its sanding properties.