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  1. #1
    shawnlee28's Avatar
    shawnlee28 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I am not the first...

     



    ...and it appears others have gotten good results
    I am a little surprised that there were not alot of comments on the pics I posted using this paint.....good or bad.
    http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html
    Theres a pretty good thread on it over at the hamb....
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  2. #2
    techinspector1's Avatar
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    Makes sense to me.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  3. #3
    HOTRODPAINT's Avatar
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    And if you use those decorator rollers, you could put patterns in the finish! I wonder if they have flames? :-)

  4. #4
    shawnlee28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DennyW
    Hey, they will carve the roller pattern you want at some places.
    Ahh,thats too much work Just use the plastic flame stickers from the pt cruisers........
    Last edited by shawnlee28; 06-09-2007 at 05:05 PM.
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  5. #5
    shawnlee28's Avatar
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    I messed up on this coat and did not thin it,it may take a month to dry....... I used acetone like the can sayes and it flashed to quickly ,just like the article said.I will try mineral spirits like was suggested in the article for a slower flash time.I was worried about blocking and then buffing it back to a shine ,but it looks like that is no worry.
    It all comes down to attention to detail ,on how the finished product looks.
    I also sprayed it instead of 7 coats like the article sayes,the pic below is one coat over brown primer sprayed.

    There were 2 other paint choices for me,those were the ,hardnose por-15 paint,its loaded with cynides and bad stuff that would have killed the neighbors for 4 houses on each side.....no go,and the paint they use on fiberglass boat molds themselves,but figured it would drop all the residents for 200 foot circle ,soo that was out too.....
    You can see the orange peel that needs to be blocked out,but like I said before ,I used a one pint trim gun at 40 or 50 lbs at the gun,{knowing it was not a final coat}if I would have used the big hvlp gravity gun and thinned it ,I am positive it would have been pretty flat.
    I am going to use this coat to get the body perfect and spray a smoother final coat ,to be blocked and buffed out,I am pretty sure mine will be as smooth as the one in the article.
    I now have the exsperiance to use a good automotive paint and not wast most of it and it will be 20 times faster ,plus much more easily worked with than this stuff.Think of it like cutting stone with a hammer and then getting computerized cutting machine
    The next one with automotive paint is going to be like someone gave me a EASY button....
    Attached Images
    Last edited by shawnlee28; 06-09-2007 at 05:27 PM.
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  6. #6
    HOTRODPAINT's Avatar
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    Don't be too nervous about the isocyanates. I've been painting 7 days a week, since about 1980, using catalyzed primers, air-dry basecoats, and catalyzed clear.

    I don't accept responsibility for this info, but I'll share it. I use "oiless" air compressers, to eliminate the carbon dioxide, a blow through mask, and no special clothing.

    That is 27 years, with an average exposure to isocyanates of about one day out every 2 weeks, (since I do a lot of sanding and graphics).....so 26 times a year for 27 years is over 700 days.....and I haven't grown any extra limbs, or turned green.

    I know the danger is real. I have seen friends who used a charcoal filter mask, that had catalyst poisoning within 10 years or less of painting full time. Usually your tongue or throat will swell, when you've reached your limit. At that point your body cannot absorb any more, so you either quit using it, or I have one friend who bought and uses a full-body suit and air system.

  7. #7
    shawnlee28's Avatar
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    This is the sheet on it,keep in mind it would have been sprayed in the open driveway.Does this seem like bad stuff????


    Product Name: Hardnose Paints Two-Component Topcoats
    Manufacturer Name: POR-15, Inc.


    Vapor Pressure: 5.9 PSIA @ 163*
    Vapor Density: 3.70 (Air = 1)
    Flash Point: 40°C (104°F)
    Auto Ignition Temperature: 246°C (475°F)
    Upper Explosive Limit: 7%
    Lower Explosive Limit: 1%
    Boiling Point: 140°C (284°F)
    Specific Gravity: 1.02 (Water = 1)
    Percent Volatile: 26% By Volume

    Ingredients

    1,6-Hexamethylene diisocyanate based polymer 28182-81-2
    Hexamethylene diisocyanate 822-06-0
    Aromatic Solvent 68333-23-3
    Xylene 1330-20-7

    SECTION 2

    Health Effects

    Emergency Overview: Hazardous according to criteria of Worksafe Australia

    Applies to All Ingredients:
    Potential Health Effects: Eyes: severe irritation; tearing skin, discoloration: drying; breathing: irritation, dizziness, unconsciousness (for solvent).
    For isocyanates: coughing, irritation of mucous membranes and respiratory tract.
    SKIN EFFECTS: Slight to moderate irritation; skin sensitizer in guinea pigs. No conclusive evidence has been developed to indicate that Hardnose Paints are carcinogenic, teratogenic or that it causes reproductive effects in animals or humans. Active resin in Hardnose Paints has been reported by NIOSH to be mutagenic to Salmonella Typhimurium bacteria in the presence of a mammalian liver activation system. There is not full agreement in the scientific community on the significance of these Ames test results and their relationship to human safety in assessing the risk of cancer in man.
    Eye Contact: HUMAN EFFECTS OF OVEREXPOSURE:
    Liquid, vapors, or aerosols are irritating to the eyes and can cause lachrymation (tearing effect). Corneal damage can occur; however, indications are that the damage is reversible and does not result in permanent injury.
    Skin Contact: HUMAN EFFECTS OF OVEREXPOSURE:
    Hardnose Paint reacts with skin protein and tissue moisture and can cause localized irritation as well as discoloration. Prolonged contact could produce reddening, swelling, or blistering and, in some individuals, skin sensitization resulting in dermatitis.
    Inhalation: HUMAN EFFECTS OF OVEREXPOSURE:
    Inhalation of Hardnose Paint vapors in concentrations above 0.02 ppm can produce irritation of the mucous membranes in the respiratory tract, running nose, sore throat, productive cough and a reduction of lung function. Extensive exposures to concentrations well above the TLV could lead to bronchitis, bronchial spasm and pulmonary edema. These effects are usually reversible. However, due to low volatility, high exposures are not anticipated except if the material is overheated or sprayed as an aerosol into the air. Hypersensitivity pneumonitis has also been reported. Another type of response is hyperreactivity or hypersensitization. Persons with a preexisting unspecific bronchial hyperreactivity or persons with a specific isocyanate hypersensitivity (as a result of previous repeated overexposure or a single large dosage) will respond to small isocyanate concentrations at levels well below the TLV of 0.02 ppm. Symptoms could be immediate or delayed and include chest tightness, respiratory distress or asthmatic attack.
    Ingestion: HUMAN EFFECTS OF OVEREXPOSURE:
    Ingestion could result in irritation and some corrosive action in the mouth, stomach tissue and digestive tract. However, it is not considered a common occupational route of exposure.
    THRESHOLD LIMIT VALUE:
    For isocyanates: 0.02 ppm
    For solvent: 200 ppm

    First Aid
    Eye Contact: Immediately flush eyes with plenty of water for 15 to 20 minutes occasionally lifting eyelids. Get medical attention, if irritation or symptoms of overexposure persists.
    Skin Contact: Immediately wash skin with plenty of soap and water for 15 to 20 minutes, while removing contaminated clothing and shoes. Get medical attention if irritation develops or persists. Wash contaminated clothing thoroughly before re-use.
    Inhalation: If inhaled, remove to fresh air. If not breathing, give artificial respiration or give oxygen by trained personnel. Seek immediate medical attention if necessary. Asthmatic-type symptoms may develop and may be immediate or delayed up to several hours. Treatment is essentially symptomatic.

    1,6-Hexamethylene diisocyanate based polymer :
    Hexamethylene diisocyanate :
    Aromatic Solvent :
    Xylene :

    SECTION 3 : PRECAUTIONS FOR USE

    Engineering Controls / Personal Protection / Flammability

    Engineering Controls: Use appropriate engineering control such as process enclosures, local exhaust ventilation, or other engineering controls to control airborne levels below recommended exposure limits.
    Ventilation System: Ventilation as required to maintain air concentrations below TLV's. If material is spray-applied, ventilation should be provided and air supplied respirators worn. Exhaust air may need to be cleaned by scrubbers or filters to reduce environmental contamination.
    Personal Protective Equipment
    Routine Handling: SPECIAL PROTECTION INFORMATION:
    RESPIRATORY PROTECTION: NIOSH/MSHA approved respirator.


    VENTILATION: Use in well-ventilated areas only. Have adequate general exhaust

    OTHER PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT: Self-contained breathing apparatus if threshold limit is exceeded.
    Skin Protection Description: Cover as much of the exposed skin area as possible with appropriate clothing. If skin creams are used, keep the area covered to a minimum.

    Eye/Face Protection: Wear appropriate protective glasses or splash goggles as described by 29 CFR 1910.133, OSHA eye and face protection regulation, or the European standard EN 166. Contact lenses should not be worn.
    Respiratory Protection: A NIOSH approved air-purifying respirator with an organic vapor cartridge or canister approved for use in isocyanate containing environments may be permissible under certain circumstances where airborne concentrations are expected to exceed exposure limits. In spray applications you must protect against exposure to both vapor and spray mist. An air-supplied respirator is strongly recommended for spray application. Protection provided by air purifying respirators is limited. Use a positive pressure air supplied respirator if there is any potential for an uncontrolled release, exposure levels are not known, or any other circumstances where air purifying respirators may not provide adequate protection.
    Other Protective: Eyewash and deluge shower should be available.

    Ingredient: 1,6-Hexamethylene diisocyanate based polymer
    Guideline Type: OSHA PEL-TWA
    Guideline Type: ACGIH TLV-TWA
    Guideline Type: Australian Exposure Standard
    Ingredient: Aromatic Solvent Guideline Type: Australian Exposure Standard
    Guideline Type: ACGIH TLV-TWA
    Guideline Type: OSHA PEL-TWA
    Ingredient: Hexamethylene diisocyanate Guideline Type: OSHA PEL-TWA
    Guideline Information: Not Established
    Guideline Type: ACGIH TLV-TWA
    Guideline Information: 0.005 ppm (0.034mg/m3)
    Guideline Type: Australian Exposure Standard
    Guideline Information: 0.005 ppm (0.034mg/m3)
    Ingredient: Xylene Guideline Type: Australian Exposure Standard
    Guideline Information: 100 ppm
    Guideline Type: ACGIH TLV-TWA
    Guideline Information: 100 ppm
    Guideline Type: OSHA PEL-TWA
    Guideline Information: 100 ppm (435 mg/m3)
    : SAFE HANDLING INFORMATION


    Storage: STORAGE TEMPERATURE (min/max): 32 deg F (0 deg C)/122 deg F (50 deg C)

    AVERAGE SHELF LIFE: 12 months @ 77 deg F (25 deg C)

    Chemical Stability: Stable under normal conditions.
    Conditions to Avoid: Temperatures below 0°C (32°F) or above 50°C (122°F). To maintain freshness: Avoid contact with water, alcohols, amines, strong bases, metal compounds or surface active materials.
    Hazardous Polymerization: Will not occur under normal conditions.


    Transportation Information: FRT CLASS BULK: Isocyanate
    DOT Shipping Name: Paint
    DOT UN Number: UN1263
    DOT Hazard Class: 3
    DOT Packing Group: III



    Spill Cleanup Measures: Eliminate source of ignition of vapors, wear protective clothing while cleaning up; absorb on sand, clay, or absorbent material.
    Waste Disposal: Consult with the US EPA Guidelines listed in 40 CFR Part 261.3 for the classifications of hazardous waste prior to disposal.


    Fire: Combustible liquid. At elevated temperatures, vapors can form an ignitable mixture with air. Vapors can flow along surfaces to distant ignition sources and flash back.
    Flash Point: 40°C (104°F)
    Flash Point Method: TCC
    Upper Flammable or Explosive Limit: 7%
    Lower Flammable or Explosive Limit: 1%
    Auto Ignition Temperature: 246°C (475°F)
    Extinguishing Media: Dry chemical (e.g. monoammonium phosphate, potassium sulfate, and potassium chloride), carbon dioxide, high expansion (proteinic) chemical foam, sand.
    Fire Fighting Instructions: Avoid spreading burning liquid with water for cooling purposes.
    Protective Equipment: As in any fire wear self-contained breathing apparatus pressure-demand, MSHA/NIOSH (approved or equivalent) and full protective gear.


    1,6-Hexamethylene diisocyanate based polymer :

    Hexamethylene diisocyanate :

    Aromatic Solvent :

    Xylene :
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  8. #8
    hotroddaddy's Avatar
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    Hot rod mag just did a story on this, but they used a falcon, theirs turned out pretty good. I personally do not see the benefit other than the money, all the sanding between coats, you should just spray it, but thats my opinion.

  9. #9
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
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    Looks great! Seems like it's holding up ok too. I'd rather spend the extra money and spray it because I already sand on cars all day every day just about so less sanding to me is better.
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  10. #10
    shawnlee28's Avatar
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    I brushed the primer on...,but spraying is much much better!I also sprayed the white in one coat ,instead of 6 roller coats.
    I am going to block this coat down and use a good hvlp gun on the next coat,..this coat was done with a one pint trim gun.
    Heres some pics from day 3 of the drying
    Attached Images
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  11. #11
    HOTRODPAINT's Avatar
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    Back in the day...

    I worked at a Chevy dealership in '68-'69. We had a '56 Buick that would come in for service that was painted with the factory salmon colored lacquer and a brush, then sanded and rubbed out. It didn't look as bad as you might think.

  12. #12
    71fordkid is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    that actually dosnt look too bad. thats route im going to take.does anyone know how orange peel shows up on flat colors? if at all?

  13. #13
    Oldf100fordman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HOTRODPAINT
    Back in the day...

    I worked at a Chevy dealership in '68-'69. We had a '56 Buick that would come in for service that was painted with the factory salmon colored lacquer and a brush, then sanded and rubbed out. It didn't look as bad as you might think.
    My dad did that with his 49 Ford in 1951 and it came out really nice. Changed it from black to red. I was five at the time and remember him and mom sanding and sanding. But it did look good when all was said and done.
    Duane S
    ____________________________________
    On a quiet night you can hear a Chevy rust

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