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11-04-2007 11:09 PM #1
Whats the best way to treat this rust?
I do not know which chemicals will work best in this situation. I am thinking after the final prep for rust I am going to use some por15 and then top coat that with a semi gloss. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.Friends dont let friends drive fords!
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11-05-2007 04:37 AM #2
All I saw was minor surface rust,I'd just knock it down a little with a wire brush,or some of those nifty 3M wheels and coat with POR15. Hank
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11-05-2007 09:04 AM #3
If it were me (and it's not), I would use Aircraft Stripper on the Sheetmetal to take the old Paint off and then Naval Jelly with a red Scotchbrite Pad to get the Rust off-keep the Stripper moist, put some clear Plastic wrap on top so that it doesn't dry out (and use a spray bottle with water to keep it moist if it does dry out-this will keep the Stripper working)-it will take elbow grease and a few applications, but you can make it rust free (don't forget to neutralize with Water and dry completely)-then I would apply a couple of coats of your favorite Epoxy Primer. Of course, you could have the Sheetmetal Media blasted-
As for the suspension parts, I would probably take them apart and have them sandlbasted, or, use a wire wheel-don't Sandblastblast the sheetmetal! It can be warped pretty easily-then, the same thing-a couple of coats of Epoxy-it will seal out any moisture and last a long, long time.
POR 15 does have it's place, however there are more and more reports of it coming off in sheets-could be poor prep (it hasn't happened to me), but if you get the rust off you don't need the POR-Epoxy Primer is much better, and some Suppliers offer it in a semi-gloss black-if it's on Suspension pieces you don't need to to top-coat it (the Sun won't have a chance to effect it-)Last edited by 35WINDOW; 11-05-2007 at 09:09 AM.
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11-05-2007 09:23 AM #4
IMO the chemical rust treatments work much better after the proper amount of sanding, wire brush, grinding, etc. By themselves with no prep, not sure how effective they are. Sometimes the old manual methods of dealing with rust still work.....Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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11-05-2007 12:14 PM #5
Thanks for the help! I was thinking of getting in there with some type of chemical and a long handle wire brush with a lot of elbow grease. The thing is I am not sure if the correct chemical and process. Good tips "35window" ,How do I neutralize the water?Last edited by BigTruckDriver; 11-05-2007 at 12:55 PM.
Friends dont let friends drive fords!
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11-05-2007 12:57 PM #6
I wasn't very clear on that was I? Here is a better explanantion:
Removing surface rust from body panels
First, remove all the heavy surface rust with a DA sander and 80-180 grit paper. To remove surface rust, use naval jelly (jelled phosphoric acid) and steel wool.
1.Work in small areas, not larger than a square foot. Wear rubber gloves, and scrub with naval jelly and steel wool.
2.Apply jelly with 000 steel wool, rub it in, and allow it to set for a couple of minutes. Don't let it dry. Keep it wet, using a squirt bottle. For inclines, you can also soak some fabric in water, and lay it on the naval jelly.
3. Rub again with steel wool. Repeat a few times.
4. When finished, wipe off the excess naval jelly with a paper towel, squirt on warm soapy water, and dry thoroughly.
5. Wipe down with lacquer thinner.
6. Sand with 180 grit.
7. Use wax and grease remover, and then spray with epoxy primer.
8. From there, you can apply body filler (the epoxy may need to be scuffed, read instructions)
9. When the filler work is done, scuff with a red scotch-brite pad.
10. Then, apply two more coats of epoxy, followed by high-build primer.
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11-05-2007 08:13 PM #7
Hopefully you'll have all the suspension pieces off for a rebuild, just treat them to a bit of time in the blast cabinet, wash, dry, and scuff them and shoot some epoxy primer on them....
For the little bit on the cowl, I'd use a small hand held sandblaster. They don't have near the pressure of the big blasters and won't damage the cowl. Got a hand held blaster off the Matco truck awhile back for $45.00, does a great job on small areas.Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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