Thread: I Need the Truth about Suede Black

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Okay, I have read all the various rants about true suede black paint and Blitz Black. And I have to admit I am even more confused than before.

All I want to know is:
1. Is the paint easy to lay down? And doe it require a top coat?
2. Is it really a lasting suede look?
3. How well does it weather?
4. Finally if this stuff is really crap -what is an affordable (non-show) alternative?

Help!

the only difference in flat paint and gloss is the gloss. flat will hide butt ugly bodywork to a point. but it will orange peel like any other. imo it is harder to keep clean. i use to wash my primered car with 600 paper but painted it as soon as it was ready. as for jd black it belongs on a tractor. there are much better products. just add a flattening agent to the paint.

I have posted this before. I did two '32 Fords that were originally shot with DP40 primer. within a couple years they were starting to look bad!

Primer was never meant to survive exposed to weather. Cheap paints of any kind will fail early because the pigments and resins are "cheap"! You can't expect it to last!

I shot the first '32 in a "semigloss" mix of catalyzed black urethane, and PPG DX685 flattener. (This flattener can also be used in clear without producing white specks.) It was hard to get an even finish on this one. Wherever it went on a little wetter, like in corners, it dried a little shinier.

The second one I did the same thing, but used a "full flat" mixing ratio. It was really nice, and still looks great 10 years later.

Check into Kustom shops pre flattened single stage. There fairly affordable and durable. My experience is flattened paint is impossible to keep clean. Every fingerprint shows up as a greasy spot not to mention road tar. Also minor scuffs leave glossy marks. Primers do not have the required uv protection and any sanding a polishing leaves a glossy finish. Flattened single stages and clears can be polished but all leave a low gloss finish instead of a flat finish. The only true flat paint I have used that maintains its finish is Alsa corps soft feel paint. Just as it sounds it feels like velvet and maintains a true flat appearance. It is very expensive but works well on interior stuff because of its durability. Its like 350 for 1.5 gallons rts versus custom shops 100-150 for 1.3 gallons rts.

I've had exactly the same experience Hotrodpaint has had with shooting flattened enamel.........if you hold the gun a second too long in one area it turns out slightly shinier than the rest. Corners and edges of brackets seem to be the worst offenders, as they will build up a thicker layer more quickly than flat surfaces. The first thing we tried to paint with flattened enamel was the original frame on my Son's '29. We shot it like we shot everything........last coat nice and wet, and the thing came out shiny as can be. Lady at the paint store said not to shoot it wet because that is what happens. I also understand if you buff out flattened clear to remove imperfections it becomes shiny too.

Hotrod Flatz is just flattened Dupont Omni I have heard, so you can get the same product by visiting your local paint shop.

Don

Since this thread was resurrected I figured I would show you a properly done "Black Suede"...

After all body prep and masking of course:

Start off with Sherwin Williams DS694 2K black sealer, shot, then scuffed with 600 we moved on to a mix of DM500 (strong black) and DA668 (flattening agent) in a true 1:1 mix. What you see is the end result, no shine (it actually got flatter into the next day for that true "primer" look), easy maintenance, and durability...Will start another thread with a 54 Chevy we have in the shop right now getting the same basic treatment (only tu tone with roof and quarter insert panels in a glass metallic blue)....