Thread: Sheet Metal Shrinking Disc

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My stud gun came with a shrinking tip, works great!!!! Couple weeks ago I got a shrinking dolly off the Matco truck, it works quite well, too.....

Go after it on the sheet metal working, Bobby!!!! It's still one of my favorite parts of a build!!!! There are also some great books that give some very good instuctions and tips... Any of the ones that Ron Fournier wrote are great!!!!!

Dave plan on learning all i can before i work it . I knew here would be the best place first since there are some great auto guys here with alot of knowledge . Been watching the T close also you should make some vids .

Originally Posted by bluestang67

Dave plan on learning all i can before i work it . I knew here would be the best place first since there are some great auto guys here with alot of knowledge . Been watching the T close also you should make some vids .

As slow as I move now-adays, they'd be pretty boring videos!!!!!!

Dave if its a video of any car work i dont think anyone here would say its boring . We all enjoy something of a tech class .





Denny i do know one thing LOL it might not be as bad as it is now . But if i do it and make it worse it will get the filler as a last resort . But i do see alot of technics from every where so i think a good mixture of them may be the technic i need too.

you can sand the fender with a block with the paint thats on it now with 80 grit this will show the hi s use a heel dolly but i all ways most of the time use a rail road dolly was better to hang on to and better to bump up lows with . use a finsh hammer and work the hi s down then sand some this will help you see whats going on but with so much metal pick up i would go over the hole thing with a slap file clean the back side of the fender first. that fender is not hit bad at all. i did one on a 36 ford that a friend shot thru the side of his brick garage that look like a mud flap.i work it to metal no filler only were some $hit work was done around the lip

one good thing is that old steel works out good i done many. what will take some time is the bead around the lip of the fender i have had to get in back of the fender and unroller the lip move the wire out of the way and use a hammer or a heel dolly the thin face and work it out to shape then roll the fender metal back over the wire that runs under the inside of the bead lip

I used to be real shy about fillers, but the new ones are so much better I don't mind using them at all! The old metal is harder to work, but does give better results! The new cars, man I don't know if it's just that thin, weak, or just so full of impurities but it's really a booger to work!!!! Think it really started going downhill in the early 70's, maybe it's something to do with all the recycled stuff in it?????

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

I used to be real shy about fillers, but the new ones are so much better I don't mind using them at all! The old metal is harder to work, but does give better results! The new cars, man I don't know if it's just that thin, weak, or just so full of impurities but it's really a booger to work!!!! Think it really started going downhill in the early 70's, maybe it's something to do with all the recycled stuff in it?????

hey you should of been at the shop today had a call to weld a new alum caddy hood with a bullet hole in the middle of the hood tig welded it and shirk it back down turn out way better then i every would of guess on filler i still like to work my metal is good as i can get it

Pat the bead doesn't look fun . I've seen so many people looking for fenders and thats the big question is if the bead is straight. I've been trying to figure out something like making a stamping die to help there. I can work on it at work and have some help there also from machine shop and tool & die.


Dave i know working at a stamping plant for Ford i see the new sheet metal coming in . It ranges from .031 to .034 and that is thin compared to the older cars. This new stuff is oil can city alot of times . I don't regret this being my hobby instead of for a living . My hat goes off to all the bodymen that still work this new stuff. I remember in the 60's my brother in law mudding a whole quarter to straighten it . My time in the 80's in the management i did get insurance to buy new parts not like then .


Denny looks like a glass of champaign bubbling for sure . There is alot of little ones .

AAHH LOL good but after my 3 beers they did look like they were popping still LOL.

no need for any die to form just get in the back and un roll it like i said use your eye and a straight edge and some rattle can primer for a guide coat and block sand it . this will help you see your lines if not rework the metal were you want it

there bad metal every where .some of the new steel you can not tig weld with steel filler rod

Pat the wire will stop it from coming back and its better to remove it from the area your going to work .

Originally Posted by bluestang67

Pat the wire will stop it from coming back and its better to remove it from the area your going to work .

i have cut it out and hammer it flat then reweld it back in it need to be there when done or some heat it not that hard to work with just move it out the way if that takes cutting it out then do that

Denny i think i've seen what your talking about . That would be a great thing on a curve it would spread out the hammer blows really even. Another tool i will have to look for at the store.