Thread: Sheet Metal Shrinking Disc
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03-12-2008 04:08 PM #31
Pat i was saying will it make working the bead easier by removing the wire. Metal is thick so i know i won't split it there doing it that way .
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03-12-2008 04:46 PM #32
Originally Posted by bluestang67
but you would be wrong in thinking this way . i would move the wire out of the way and when done put it back in .in have done them this way .i had had to put a backer were the lip is all crack up from shaking . you want some dollys that fit the form of the fender if not i have re work dollys for the job. a bag is good for free forming steel or alum not to good for something that need to be work back to a all ready a ruff form. so from this point it a slap file followed by a dolly and a big face finsh hammer snapon sell a nice one has a shink face on the other side
Last edited by pat mccarthy; 03-12-2008 at 04:48 PM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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03-13-2008 03:44 PM #33
Pat i mean move wire . Peel off roll and move wire to work bead . I'm asking this will help in the reshaping . Is the wire flexable enough that it will stay in place when i reroll lip or will i have to work wire also .
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03-13-2008 04:41 PM #34
you can heat the wire and bend it strait hammer on it with a dolly when re working the fender.on the bead just try not to hit it so hard to flatten the bead out side of the fender when re woking the bead. when the fender is strait lay the wire back were it was . if not to humpy it should be ok. if you have to tack it in spots to keep it from moving that way you do not have to worry about wire to muchIrish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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