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03-22-2008 08:39 AM #1
Dago
I had started a similar thread last year, but not to powder coat. On my truck,I used a 3m drill bit attached abrasive pad. As long as there is no paint, or very little, the pads are great at taking the rust off. It took about 1 1/2 hours, per fender per side to do this. I then used a rust converter/primer, which converts whatever rust is left to black primer(zinc oxide I believe, but don't quote me on it). I then sand off whatever comes off easily, making sure no rust is exposed which there shouldn't be, or reprime with converter an leave on. Then a quick coat of etch primer, which some people say is not necessary, followed by a two part epoxy primer, which will prime and seal the metal indefinately. Dave brings up a good point about grease though. It is inevitable you'll be redoing and cleaning as you go.
I like the epoxy primer, because it keeps me from putting a time line on the final paint job. I also don't have to worry about water getting under the primer and starting the rust process/paint failure all over again. The epoxy primer is about 70.00 bucks a quart for both parts needed. I bought a cheap sprayer from Harbor frieght that works fine, but wasted paint because it wasn't gravity fed!
$160.00 to blast all four fenders clean is a good deal though. I've read about metal fatigue and sheet metal warping with blasting, but those old fenders are pretty thick.
I read this article on rust removal, seemed good to me.
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/206.cfm
Good luck Steve.Last edited by stovens; 03-22-2008 at 08:42 AM.
" "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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03-22-2008 10:16 AM #2
I always spray on a coat of PPG's DPLF Epoxy sealer on any raw /blasted metal to keep it from surface rusting !
Just handling the raw steel with your hands will start to form rust , as your hands have moisture and the salt from this moisture attach to the raw metal starting it to rust . I usually wear those disposable blue rubber shop gloves when handling the raw metal too .
All it takes is a 3M 3" scotch brite abrasive pad on a die grinder to remove the epoxy primer for the repair .
Sure beats wasting money watching your panel surface rust again after just having it sand blasted !
even a light coat of rattle can rustoleum gray or red oxide primer is better then leaving it raw metal
Need to protect it as must as possible because as soon as the air hits it , it starts to rust .
I didn't know him but followed his posts. True hotrodder, he will be missed. RIP 34_40 MIKE. Condolence to the Mrs. Nolan
We Lost a Good One