Thread: streaks in silver paint
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08-07-2008 01:54 PM #1
streaks in silver paint
Im using Napa Cross Fire base coat and clear coat - two coats of base coat and everything looks good- first coat of clear and everything looks good- second coat of clear and I start seeing streaks in the rear quarter panels and doors- not in the roof, hood or deck lid --no runs or sags in the clearcoat - looks like the base coat silver is somehow bleeding -- how can I prevent this from happening?
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08-07-2008 04:50 PM #2
Sounds like your base coat may of not been dry and its being reflowed by the clear .
Usually happens on the Horizontal panels before the side panels .
Or you had tiger stripes in the side panels before the clear & they didnt appear till you got clear on it .
I usually cross hatch my silvers & high metallics to help prevent tiger stripes , plus my Iwata LPH 400 LV makes for easy spraying of difficult colors
Take it out in the sun and see if they disappear , as if your not using 98% daylight bulbs to paint in the old style Florissant lights will pull some odd stuff out that normal sun light wont show .
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08-07-2008 08:15 PM #3
tiger stripes
thanks for the input- base coat was air dry 24 hours, but I didn't cross hatch the silver enough --I'll wet sand and try again --any other suggestions would be helpful -- thanx
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08-07-2008 08:17 PM #4
fog coats?
im no pro, but thats what i always did to prevent streaking/tiger striping.
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08-08-2008 05:49 AM #5
Fog coats in base clear system will make your clear a bit more pealy , as the dry base will not let the clear flow out as much . And if to dry of an application the clear will look like you just painted over sand .
24 hours dry times between base and the clear coat may become a problem of non adhesion and cause the clear to de-laminate from base later on , if you didnt use an inter coat clear and lightly scuff before clearing , Because the clear has nothing to lock onto , due to the base being dry .
I shoot wet on wet .
May try to use a faster reducer to help lock the metallics if you think you can get away with it .
May try turning your material knob in a 1/2 turn to a full turn to help .
Try faster and smaller overlaps may help with the widest fan setting .
I do not know what type gun you are using , but Gun air pressure can help too , not going to drastic in either direction . Some HVLP's dont like lots of air pressure .
Some silvers can be a real bitch to lay out nice , due to no pigments in the formula .
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08-08-2008 06:30 AM #6
Originally Posted by machineworks
Bill S.Last edited by mrmustang; 08-08-2008 at 06:34 AM.
Instead of being part of the problem, be part of a successful solution.
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08-08-2008 11:13 AM #7
good to know!
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08-24-2008 11:19 AM #8
Did you scuff the base coat before spraying? 24 hours means the base was fully dry and therefore the clear cannot bite into it to hold. The lines sounds like tiger stirping to me, not enough overlap. If anything, I'd listen to whatever SprayTech has to say or offer. Before I ever got into doing auto body and paint as a career, SprayTech taught me a LOT of things and everything he taught me I actually tried hands on and it worked for me and I still use his techniques or what he taught me today. As for gun, I use the Iwata lph400 as well and it works awesome on clear and base coats. SprayTech, when you use the Iwata 400 for metallics, are you using the purple, orange or silver cap? Orange is their new cap for kandies, flake, etc and the purple is the base cap and metallic, silver is clear but I've shot base out of it and it worked fine...www.streamlineautocare.com
If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!
Thank you Roger. .
Another little bird