Thread: Any PPG users online?

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I "inherited" some K200 primer with a partially finished job I took. When I opened it, the primer had settled, and is like tar! I can't seem to get it to mix back into suspension. Can anyone tell me if it is any good?

I'd say toss it... Never had any good results with stuff like that, even if I got it liquid again....

Originally Posted by HOTRODPAINT

I "inherited" some K200 primer with a partially finished job I took. When I opened it, the primer had settled, and is like tar! I can't seem to get it to mix back into suspension. Can anyone tell me if it is any good?

Not that I use PPG any longer (switched over to Sherwin Williams Ultra 7000 line back in 9/07 and have not looked back since) but from what you describe, it's toast...Dump it and run, or if your state is like mine, add some hardener to it and wait for it to become a solid, then throw it in the trash instead of taking up space in the hazmat drum.......


Bill S.

Sounds junk to me too... Bill, a lot of people talk trash and say Sherwin Williams is a house paint and they are no good for automotive. Have you ever had any problems with their higher end stuff? I have used their base and tinted primer before and liked it. The tinted primer was nice because it dried to a gloss and you could see imperfections better but the first gloss layer clogged up the sand paper quick. Once you got the gloss off it sanded easier though.

Oh and the reason I ask these questions is because I plan to switch from PPG to something else. I already use SPI primers and clears only now but looking for a great base coat and the occasional primer or clear. Dupont (chromabase) has always worked well for me too.

Here is some feedback on this "inherited project".

I have painted, sanded and buffed all of the small pieces, to see how well it sprays, what time-windows work, and if it is still as hard to finish sand and buff as it was then. I was surprised to find that I didn't have the old problems that made me dump it in the '80s.

There are still many questions I won't get answered, (since I will return to my old dependable R-M), but I am about ready to shoot the main body and graphics, and am no longer worried about it.

The mention of Sherwin Williams.... which is R-M's second line paint.... makes me want to offer this:

I have used it on occasion, but it dies back and fades much quicker than the upscale R-M products. It may not be an issue for some....but I live in the "sunshine capital", and it is hard on paint, so I no longer use it.

Originally Posted by HOTRODPAINT

I "inherited" some K200 primer with a partially finished job I took. When I opened it, the primer had settled, and is like tar! I can't seem to get it to mix back into suspension. Can anyone tell me if it is any good?

i used over the years 100 of gallons of that stuff what happens is you get a lazy guy that will not stir the stuff and they pore off the binder and your left with the solid s or you had air get in the can for paint or primers i move it to a smaller qt can if its in a gallon can the k200 is ok not the best it can and will move some if you try to hid any thing that should be filled or sanded better .i use every ones paints but like ppg for over all repaints not the best for a match. but they allways had many clears and you could find one that work good .the last time i shot ppg was a custom 57 chevy truck and was done with dau 82 clear that is no longer made so i used there stratoclear just have to watch your temp so you do not get any solvent trap i have sprayed many clears this stuff rocks .works very good

This clear is Dcu2021....which I let dry 48 hours, and it sanded and buffed nicely.

Originally Posted by HOTRODPAINT

This clear is Dcu2021....which I let dry 48 hours, and it sanded and buffed nicely.

yes i used that to but you need to cut and wheel it soon or it will lockup in time and it will be easier to wheel out a cement driveway the stratoclear 2082 buffs up like butter .i turn my friend on to it he did a carbon fiber table and hammer that clear on the carbon fiber and sanded it out he just could not believe how well it work out

Hey HRP , I have used PPG for 30 years now with no problems .
I shoot DBC base coat , but liked DBU better ( but its getting fazed out ) , and shoot Global D893 clear over the top , it rubs like butter . Have not had any die backs since using it , and have been the painter at the local Cadillac , Pontiac, Buick , GMC dealership for 14 years now , I would of seen some come backs due to die back as we have a life time warranty on our work .
I have not used K200 when PPG introduced K36 (I dont like the yellow under my paint jobs , looks like crap when the paint chips especially if the top color isnt yellow ) , but since have switched to the DPS 3055 primer when we switched to DBC , and went to the DAS sealers .
We will most likely be switching to Envirobase (PPG's waterborne ) by the first of the year .

I dont like 2002 , 2021 , or 2042 as when cooked in a heat makeup booth at 140 for 40 minutes , and if you dont get to it after a few hours its like buffing a piece of granite . Glad you were successful with it .
This is a job I did for my buddy in DBC & Global and is unbuffed , it was just coming home from the paint shop and he is wiping the mist off it before we pushed it in the garage .
http://homepage.mac.com/dwilliams53/...1000-full.html

the k36 and the k200 were both are ok not great the 36 i like less on cars that needed much help i shot the k200 up to 220 and went to k36 and finale sanded out to 400 wet and shot dbu dau or dbc over it i never like the DP s much for sealers the k36 was less like a spong that the k200 was so i used it like a sealer and put color in it if i did not want gray

Originally Posted by SprayTech

This is a job I did for my buddy in DBC & Global and is unbuffed , it was just coming home from the paint shop and he is wiping the mist off it before we pushed it in the garage .
http://homepage.mac.com/dwilliams53/...1000-full.html

Looks great! The job I am doing is on a Shelby Mustang clone....white with the factory blue stripes, so it won't show off a gloss like the red & black! :-(

I always liked the Blue w/ White stripes .
And thanks

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

the k36 and the k200 were both are ok not great the 36 i like less on cars that needed much help i shot the k200 up to 220 and went to k36 and finale sanded out to 400 wet and shot dbu dau or dbc over it i never like the DP s much for sealers the k36 was less like a spong that the k200 was so i used it like a sealer and put color in it if i did not want gray

I didnt much care for the DP sealers either , your right it acted like a sponge and soaked up a paint job .

I only use DPLF sealers for a good ground coat now , then do all my plastic work and use the DPS primer over it all .
I still use K36 on home projects though .

yes it looks good .i like the dau75 clear over the delstar that clear was not all bad i wish i had taken photos of the many cars i did with that stuff. over my 30 years of fun but just was not in to photos much . i have some photos of the planes i painted for jon s i painted for many i was a gun for hirer. but always like to work with steel more then paint .i do miss it at times i made more money in the body work then in the engine machine work