Thread: Painting over Rust

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I know I've seen it before but I can't find it, sorry for asking again.

I am getting ready to start filling and painting my body and was considering using a zip wheel to remove the rust instead of getting media blasted. The problem is I won't be able to get it all on the underside or a lot of the interior. There isn't really any flaking rust but I was wondering if I can spray POR15 over the rust and then hit it with my Self etching primer, primer sealer and filler, then paint? I've painted a bunch before but I really don't know what I'm doing, I just do what I'm told.

Any other ideas or should I just blast it. My friend has a sandblasting truck and said he can use a really fine grade of sand that's like a powder or I might ask him for one of the other alternatives. Problem there is transport somewhere to do it and once I'm there how to get under it.

Lots more questions to come,

Thanks,
Sean

the out side needs to be sand blast or use sand paper on a da and a cup wire wheel somewhat smooth then work the metal prep in the steel with a red 3m pad or wire bush and use a epoxy on it and go from there on the inside you can use por15 works better with rust then clean new steel you have to watch the sand blasting can over work the steel and make it wavy

Best thing is to get rid of the rust. Sand blast it if you can. If you cannot afford that or dont want to pull the body to do the underside then clean whatever scale and rust you can, pre clean it and POR15 it. POR15 like mentioned needs rust to "bite" to the metal and it will seal it off. Some people dont believe in POR but I do and have tested it myself so that is the only reason why I do now (I had doubts about it before). If you want to paint over it I recommend using POR15's primer and then your own base coat if you want. Some primers (not sure if it is just me) dont bite to the POR15 and did not work for me. I called and asked them and they said it needs their own primer and whatever basecoat you want to use.

Thanks guys,



So will the Lizard skin bond to the POR15 or will I have to use their primer as well for that? I ordered both the sound and heat coats.

I'm thinking maybe I should just blast it but I don't know if he can get any other media.

I have never used Lizard Skin (wish I could afford it) over POR15 so cannot tell you there. Best thing to do is call POR15 and ask them ALSO call Lizard Skin to varify it and make sure you can do that. That way you have two answers and then whatever answers you get on here. You dont want to waste that stuff, spray it on and it not stick or start falling/chipping off.

Yea that's a good idea, I'll call them tomorrow. I want to get started on this, I hate having to wait for someone else when I got some time off, but the price is pretty good. I hear ya on the cost issue, that hurt but I don't want to do it again and I figure I'll use the gun again when I do my '51 Chev. Who knows my TJ is loud as hell....

Sean

I'm with you on that. I'd rather spend the money and do it right one time and not have to worry about it again. I plan to use Lizard skin on my 66 F100 but dont have the money right now so it's on hold.
When you ordered it did they say you can spray both of their coatings on (the heat and sound one)? I dont know why they dont just make something in one product that does heat and sound control in one instead of buying both...???

Yea I believe it says you have to spray the sound on first then the heat. I only ordered one pail of each so I'll do the firewall and tunnel with the heat and if I have enough I was thinking around the inside of the cowl. The doors and floor and maybe the roof will get the rest, I'm not sure how far it will go so that may change. It says about 100 sq. feet on their site but Summit says more like 50.

It's probably the same thing already .

Sean

Let me know how well it sprays on and how far it goes. I want to do it but need enough to do inside the doors, firewall, floors inside and out, behind the seat and MAYBE even the roof. I wouldn't mind just doing the entire interior with it and make an ultra quiet interior. The roof may be going a little over board but at least the floor, firewall, inside the doors and back of cab.

wanted to let you guys know the lizardskin will brush on great... self levels to leave a uniform finish. to spray it (heat or sound) you WILL need there spray gun or just a undercoating gun will work fine. I just used it on my 39 chevy coupe I am just finishing. will never go back to glue or stick on heat & sound deadener again. I used it as a undercoating ( heat)on the bottom of the floors, runningboards, fenders,. then on the inside of the car I sprayed the (heat) on the firewall ,and roof. after that I sprayed the sound over the intire insided. the car is quiet!! and best of all there is no heat coming in the car!!!!! which says alot , I a running a 454 bbc & the headers & exhuast are very close to the floor panels. it is worth the extra $$$$

How much of it did you use? Will the two buckets be enough for me or should I have added more? Also how did you prepare the surface before you sprayed?

Thanks,
Sean

Sean, interesting stuff. I just went to their web site and read about lizard skin. Here is a quick guide they use for how much you will need.
Older style Pickup
1940-1960 2 gal. - 1 unit

3-5 Window Cpe 2 gal. - 1 unit
2-door Sedans

1933-1939 4 gal. - 2 units
Chevy/Ford

1955-1957 4 gal. - 2 units

Applying LizardSkin® Ceramic Insulation & LizardSkin® SC
For maximum sound control and insulation performance, both LizardSkin coatings may be used, but it is important that LizardSkin® SC always be applied FIRST. When used in tandem, LizardSkin® SC should be applied at least 12 hours prior to application of LizardSkin® Ceramic Insulation.

You got me thinking about sound and heat and I came across this product as well. It seems a bit cheaper, http://www.secondskinaudio.com/therm...n/firewall.php
Their applicator is by far cheaper, but by time you do there three layer application, Lizard skin would be easier and cheaper. I wonder if you could buy their sprayer for lizard skin?

I read through this extensive thread about alternatives but I'd rather spend a little extra and do it once than have to clean up my mess and do it again .

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alte...ht=lizard+skin

Someone else might be a little more experimental.

Sean

I hear yah Sean, the more I read there, the more of a pain it seemed. I figured the cheap sprayer they sell would probably work for the lizard skin.