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Thread: advice on sandpaper grit
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    atichargr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1929 Ford Model A Tudor
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    SprayTech wanted to know what shape the body was in , well it has no rust has been taken down to bare metal and coated with ppg DP90 the body work was started but does need quit a bit more, the roof has some low spots don't know if it is from too much filler in some places or just needs more and then some shapeing , there are also some areas on the body that need some smoothing out. I havn't sanded any of it yet so I don't know how much filler is on the car but I am very sure that the body is rust free and preped pretty well, they gentleman that was building the car sold it to me so he could buy a 37 ford that would accomidate his growing family (grandchildren) I can definatly see that there is filler in places but havn't really taken any paper to it yet to see how much, Since I have never really done any body work but am willing to take my time and learn and get it right. does this help any SprayTech? here are a few pics of the car at the link below you may need to copy and paste it.

    thanks,
    simon

    http://s170.photobucket.com/albums/u...9%20Model%20A/

  2. #2
    SprayTech's Avatar
    SprayTech is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford tudor humpback
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    That is one fine hotrod you got yourself there !!!!!!!!!

    I would get some white spray paint and just lightly fog a coat over the body ( called a GUIDE COAT ) then get a long sanding board and block sand it with 180 or 220 grit , and see all your highs and lows . Some areas may only take a skim coat to get it straight , and other areas may require some bigger attention , but the block sanding will give you a good visual on the work involved to get it right !

    Its easier to work bondo if you can hammer and dolly the dents and get the metal as straight as you can ,then to try and fill .

    With it having the DP on it you can ruff it up ( the block sanding will be sufficient ) and put your filler over it , as this is how PPG recommends a good repair as the DP is an excellent ground coat for repairs !

    I use only 80 grit to sand my filler & then just before I have it where I want it I then go to 180 grit for the final cutting ( This will also help on filling with primer as it doesnt take as much to fill the deep scratches ) , as I can usually spread the filler smooth and not have to cut it with any thing courser .
    A cheese grater will cut fast so be sure to use little pressure to shape as you dont want to cut it all off . keep it a tad high & use your blocks & 80 to get it straight .
    Hope this helps

  3. #3
    atichargr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks SprayTech could I use an aresol type primer for the (guide coat)? and if so what would you rec. I use? I have some spray equipment and a 60 gal compressor but I think that I would rather just get the body work done and get it to a painter to have the base and clear done. The area that I build up should I buy some ppg D90 and respray those areas? Or again could I use some sort of arisol can primer? like I said I have never sprayed is it possible to prime outside with just a respirator? the reason I don't want to paint is well two reasons one I have never done it before and two I have heard that you really need a good booth and a fresh air hood so not to kill yourself.

    thanks,
    simon

  4. #4
    SprayTech's Avatar
    SprayTech is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Yes an aerosol can of light colored primer will work as a guide coat . This will show Highs & Lows when you run a block over the panels .
    Sanding in an X pattern as it will not cut groves the size of your block in the panels Use this method through every blocking process !

    I would not use a spray can primer for priming your body work , use PPG's K36 for your priming & blocking process , and I would stick with PPG products as this is what your ground surface is , I am not a big believer in mixing products as you never know what is or is not compatible with each other . Even though many mix products with great success .
    It may take a few primings and blockings to get it ready for paint .
    PREP work is 80% of a paint job .

    When you have it ready for paint I would leave it in the K36 primer and let the paint shop use the sealer and base coat and clear . Hopefully finding a shop that shoots PPG .

  5. #5
    atichargr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    SprayTech sorry don't mean to be a pain in the A** but one last question, I have been reading up on saftey of painting, I read that a active charcoal face mask is actually sufficent is this true? Here is my plan and I want to know if you think this and a face mask respirator would be okay not a risk to my health since I already smoke cigs. I am buying a 20 by 30 protable car port to put in my back yard ( large yard) and store my 1992 mustang that lost its place in my garge to the 29 model A. I was going to get a 20x30 tarp and errect the fully enclosed car port over it. I thought I could make some sort of houseing out of 2x4s and plywood that could house 2 box fans about 2-3 feet off the floor, and put that in the entrance way closing the front of the carport on it then have the fans blowing in with house hold a/c filters on the front of the fans, then have the back door of the carport 1/2-3/4 open. do you think this would be an okay enviorment for painting and a safe one with enough ventilation and use of only a carbon filter face mask?

    thanks,
    simon
    Last edited by atichargr; 11-16-2008 at 09:29 AM.

  6. #6
    SprayTech's Avatar
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    I use the 3M Charcoal respirator every day , but make sure you get one that fits snug to your face and seals ( S, M & L sizes ) , can NOT be used with facial hair ! Mustache is ok but not goat -T or beard .

    I also use the 3M full face Charcoal mask too , uses disposable charcoal filters that can be changed when needed ( and you can buy to replace them ) , and I buy a package of tear offs to keep the lens clean of overspray . I like it better as these high solid clears bother my eyes , and Isocyanates ( catalyst or hardners ) go towards moisture
    With these masks , make sure you seal them in a big zip lock baggy to help make them go farther as once they are opened they will filter air constantly and therefore reducing protection & made useless .

    Any one of these will work for a person that doesnt spray all the time & everyday . No need to purchase a high dollar fresh air unit for a few times spraying . I have been breathing this crap for 30 years and havent died yet , but the lungs dont have the capacity they once had and I dont have 3 arms or 15 toes , and not bald ........ ha ha ha

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