Thread: enamel paint

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I was wondering if these enamel paints out there are any good? They say they are single stage but if a clear is put on top they come out show quality... I was just wondering if anyone has used any of this, the only reason I am leaning towards it is they say goes on pretty easy and is probably the least toxic paint out there... any input would be appriciated

thanks,
simon

I spray roughly 10-15 cars a week using a catalyized Sherwin Williams automotive paint, it's not the paint you really have to worry about but the hardeners you must use with them. Unless you have a proper spray booth and fresh air system (hooded) I suggest you let a professional paint your car.

Bill S.

Uncatalyzed enamels were used for years in the automotive industry.Are they any good? yes. They have a soft underside that makes them very chip resistant but more easily scratched. Spot repairs are difficult,but panel repairs are easy because of great color retention. They lay out nicely as long as proper reducers are used for the color and temperature. Long flash times make mistakes easy to fix but also make contamination more likely. Blush can be a problem in high humidity areas. Clears are not necessary or even desireable in a driver as enamels properly applied do not need to be buffed. They have good gloss as sprayed. A talented painter will make them as glossy as a buffed job. Color sanding between coats is not needed but can be done as long as the paint is given enough dry time between coats, like a couple weeks. Like I said, it stays soft underneath so extensive sanding isn't a good idea. A high quality spray booth is a must have. Modern cat enamels were developed to make money for the automotive industry, not because they are better. Let the flaming begin.

I have worked with both and I would never want to go back to Enamel with no hardener..I have to believe that clear coating over uncatylized enamel would be a disaster..Be fun to see the pro's opinions on all of this...Hard to beat urethane base coats

i painted many cars with enamel with hardener. having it cat let you top coat with a clear in less then two days or cut and buff the hardner made the paint hold up better less soft i used the ppg line alot of the time we would paint them sand them dead flat then put dau75 clear with DXR 80 hardener it work good back when i started painting over all were done some of the time with enamel with hardener and spot repair was lacquer was very fast you did not worry about dirt much it took more prep work and it needed a cut and buff for shine on GM we used RM lacquer i never seen emamel ever blush but we have used retarter in lacquer .oh the good old days gallon of enamel paint some qwik slick you could set the world on fire

Originally Posted by Daffy427

I have worked with both and I would never want to go back to Enamel with no hardener..I have to believe that clear coating over uncatylized enamel would be a disaster..Be fun to see the pro's opinions on all of this...Hard to beat urethane base coats

you can not top coat enamel with not much of any thing only thing you could spray on it was water with out it lifting and you can not clear coat it with out any hardener but we did do to save money was only shoot the last coat with hardener to save money it was alot of money back then ppg sold 1/2 pintsbut it was cheaper to buy the full pint and use it on two cars