Thread: painting with spary cans

Tweet

im thinging of painting my truck with spary cans i like rust oleum satin black, can you tell me if it will hold up and is it good paint ,or what is and where can i get nozzles that will spary a wider fan

If you like black satin you will like John Deere Blitze Black tractor paint ,available in spray cans. It has a nozzle that sprays just like a compressor spray gun.
The finish is a little better than primer. You can wash it and does not wear off and shows no finger prints etc.
I usedit on my car after reading about it at Hotrodders.com. and seeing pics of other cars. They have a wiki art. on it. It also is available for spray guns and can be cut to your liking.
Get a can and try it out.
I attached a pic.

Rustoleum is fine provided you can get it with one coat. I was once doing a two-color paint job on some snowflake wheels. Was looking for a 'blodshot eyes' look. Anyway, I was first chemically stripping the wheels. Then Painted the wheel red. ( concentrated on the tops ). Then I masked off the tops red, and painted the rest white.

Well, the white kept bubbling off. I did the first wheel three times before I decided it was the paint, not the prep. I switched to Krylon, and no problems.

Since then, I have run into this problem repeated with rustoleum. It tends to bubble off if you spray it over itself. ( second coat after first has dried ).

My advice for rattle can is: Krylon or epoxy appliance enamel. For exhaust, the high temp stuff actually holds up pretty well.

I used John Deere Blitz Black on my 53 wagon and it worked out real well no fadeing no streaks,

I used two coats of Rustoleum gloss black on my frame unprimed and touched it up in a few places where I made some changes such as welding in an added crossmember. Generally speaking the Rustoleum blends well with more than one coat BUT (!) it is pretty sensitive to temperature. For good results I recommend only using it at 70 F or above. In the summer when the garage was in the 90 F range the paint blended in great with extra coats and spot touchup, BUT in the Fall when the temperature went below 60 F it was a mess with major crinkling. It needs to be hot enough to drive off the solvent fast. Now I wish I had used a primer first but I won't know how it holds up on the road until I get the car running. I was over confident after the first coat on the frame, it looked good and dried fast so I put on another coat and that worked great in the Summer heat. Later when I added the crossmember in the cooler Fall I had a crinkling mess that I sanded down twice and painted three times until I just left it hidden beneath the body floor.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist.teen rodder

So cool temp makes the stuff crinkle. Well at least now I know why.

Just stick with krylon or appliance epoxy and no crinkle probs.