Thread: Primer Questions

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Originally Posted by FMXhellraiser

Well here is what I would have done... I would have first gone over the entire bare metal of the car with epoxy primer (I only use SPI Epoxy primer and their clears). Then you can lay your filler over top of the epoxy without even sanding it to adhere (SPI epoxy doesn't need to be sanded in order to put filler over it and priming first is highly recommended). Some people think bare metal is the best way to go and this is what I used to do until I started using SPI epoxy. Anyways after that, you can use a basic high or medium build primer or even the SPI epoxy on top. You can also reduce this primer and use it as a sealer as well.

yep they said that about dp just put the filler over it. i never had any rust under filler or loss of hookup. but on the dp your feather the would roll up. sealer or pimer thinner would pull it up so i stop using it that way .on new car with oem finsh with small dent. i sanded the clear off and put the filler right on,it did work good. and for filling more i allways used mar glass on my first coat . i never use spi so it may work just as good as you say. i just saying how i did it every day when i did it and dp for a hold down sealer it suck i do not care for over lapping sealer paint primers .if i am in fresh color if things go wrong it get striped or sanded and more base no sealer or primer if it is a used part like a bumper body part they get striped no new paint on old painted parts less i painted it the first time

I think all the rust under the body filler crap stems from the days when we used to make body panels look like a sifter in an attempt to straighten it. All the holes in the backside allowed moisture to creep in. Also the old lacquer primer was porous and soaked up water like a sponge. we used to wet sand it, then paint over it trapping in the water and we fought blisters and everything else. Boy we have it good now days. With the "new" stuff I've primed before I put on filler, and put filler directly to metal. Either way seems fine as long as there are no holes on the backside. I remember a time when we never put filler over paint, but I stopped grinding off all the paint several years ago. It seems to work fine over good quality paint and I don't have any come backs. If I'm starting from scratch with a clean metal panel, I just do all the filler work first, apply some etching primer and then seal it up with a good urethane or epoxy primer. Seems to be easiest for me. Some of the body filler on my '35 is 15 years old and it looks as good as the day I did it.

Originally Posted by 35chevy

I think all the rust under the body filler crap stems from the days when we used to make body panels look like a sifter in an attempt to straighten it. All the holes in the backside allowed moisture to creep in. Also the old lacquer primer was porous and soaked up water like a sponge. we used to wet sand it, then paint over it trapping in the water and we fought blisters and everything else. Boy we have it good now days. With the "new" stuff I've primed before I put on filler, and put filler directly to metal. Either way seems fine as long as there are no holes on the backside. I remember a time when we never put filler over paint, but I stopped grinding off all the paint several years ago. It seems to work fine over good quality paint and I don't have any come backs. If I'm starting from scratch with a clean metal panel, I just do all the filler work first, apply some etching primer and then seal it up with a good urethane or epoxy primer. Seems to be easiest for me. Some of the body filler on my '35 is 15 years old and it looks as good as the day I did it.

yes same here the body work on my cars are lead and did some of it back 25+ years ago and ppg DZ lacquer primer on the chevy still holding up good .i stop doing body work sometime ago for a living. i allways put the filler on the steel to if striped clean to