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Thread: Finish sanding
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    IC2
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadster32 View Post
    Do you guys over there not tint your primers body colour ???

    Speaking only for myself, light, medium or dark depending on the BC or SS
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  2. #2
    roadster32's Avatar
    roadster32 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 26T Coupe, 32 Roadster, 41 Willys Coupe
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    My personal preference is to first use 2 pack Epoxy primer and overcoat wet on wet with 2 pack hi build tinted to the colour of the car, that way any stonechips don't show so bad.


    Quote Originally Posted by IC2 View Post
    Speaking only for myself, light, medium or dark depending on the BC or SS
    Its aweful lonesome in the saddle since my horse died.

  3. #3
    IC2
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadster32 View Post
    My personal preference is to first use 2 pack Epoxy primer and overcoat wet on wet with 2 pack hi build tinted to the colour of the car, that way any stonechips don't show so bad.

    This is what I used on my current build:
    1- Nason and SPI epoxy primers (in this amount: 1qt Nason(Wescott front fenders, er wings only),5qts SPI, the rest of the steel Brookville body - Nason can't be sanded, SPI can)
    2- SPI 2K primer - 1 gallon
    3- Polyester high build primer - 1 gallon (sorry, I don't recall the brand, but it was recommended by a pro on another site)
    4- Rage Gold filler - 1 gallon (half plus left)
    5- DuPont ChromaBase 7 quarts
    6- SPI Universal Clear 7 quarts
    7- Presta 1500 to cut
    8- Presta Swirl remover to buff
    9- Rolls of 3M tape - guesstimate 4-5
    10- Wet and Dry Sandpaper in grits - 80(a lot - I had to go to bare metal). 3-4 packages each of 220, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000. All was either 3M or Norton and a bit of Mirka (my favorite and a bit less then 3M)

    And yep, tinting is the best way - I just don't do it. As you probably have found out - we don't have rough highways nor any chance of stone chips as the paving is smooth as silk, always maintained on our side of the Atlantic (now if you believe that, I have some very nice land in Florida..........)
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  4. #4
    roadster32's Avatar
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    The last 2 cars i've painted i've put 2 coats of epoxy over the hi build bfore top coat and they seem to be a lot more resilient to stone chips, Not sure why but they definitly are, both have been on the road now for 2 years without any chips.


    Quote Originally Posted by IC2 View Post
    This is what I used on my current build:
    1- Nason and SPI epoxy primers (in this amount: 1qt Nason(Wescott front fenders, er wings only),5qts SPI, the rest of the steel Brookville body - Nason can't be sanded, SPI can)
    2- SPI 2K primer - 1 gallon
    3- Polyester high build primer - 1 gallon (sorry, I don't recall the brand, but it was recommended by a pro on another site),
    4- Rage Gold filler - 1 gallon (half plus left)
    5- DuPont ChromaBase 7 quarts
    6- SPI Universal Clear 7 quarts
    7- Presta 1500 to cut
    8- Presta Swirl remover to buff
    9- Rolls of 3M tape - guesstimate 4-5
    10- Wet and Dry Sandpaper in grits - 80(a lot - I had to go to bare metal). 3-4 packages each of 220, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000. All was either 3M or Norton and a bit of Mirka (my favorite and a bit less then 3M)

    And yep, tinting is the best way - I just don't do it. As you probably have found out - we don't have rough highways nor any chance of stone chips as the paving is smooth as silk, always maintained on our side of the Atlantic (now if you believe that, I have some very nice land in Florida..........)
    Its aweful lonesome in the saddle since my horse died.

  5. #5
    IC2
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    It probably provides a bit of cushioning effect with the added build. Some folks here just use multiple coats of epoxy with no poly/2K high build. The best that I've found here is the Southern Polyurethanes (SPI) which can be easily sanded for several days before it gets really tough then it takes some effort. It's like the high build polyester but a heluva lot stronger after final cure. When putting mine together, I nicked a couple of spots of the BC/CC but never even made a mark in the epoxy.
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

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