Thread: bc\cc under trunk and hood advice?

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Originally Posted by rspears

Thanks for your reply - just the type of info I was looking for to understand basics, especially this last part on making single stage. One more question - for a hiboy frame where parts are fully exposed adjacent to the body ('33, so not as much exposed as a '32) it sounds like a good base coat + clear would be the best approach?

Roger, I just traveled the "same path" this week on my 32 High Boy. Let me give you some of my findings.

First, Jay (aka, Hot Rod Paint) gave me "dead nuts on" good advice. He told me I would not be satisfied using only single stage, and I should just bite the bullet and do the BC/CC system. It took, two quarts of sealer, one gallon of (waterborne) base, and almost two gallons of clear material to paint all 27 pieces (many were painted on all sides). That was a little over $1100. at a "discounted shop cost" in paint material. The paint job turned out beyond my best hope, it looks a mile deep.

Since I live in California, I had some serious reservations about using "the now required" waterborne base coat after spending almost one year of weekends doing body prep and fab in my driveway. Jay was not a big believer in the water paint, but I had no choice and it now looks great. Only time will tell how well it holds up.

Ken Thurm (wisely) suggested that I use a powdercoat applied primer on the body parts (in grey). I also powdercoated the frame and rear axle in semi black. It's much cheaper to do the powdercoat process when you take into consideration the cost of media blasting and purchasing epoxy primer material. Note, after the frame was coated, I taped it off and prepped and finished the outside showing areas in the same BC/CC as the body was done. In my opinion, as good as powdercoat is it still does not have the same finish as paint and even though I could color match it, I feel painting the outside of the frame will allow it to be repaired and touched up in the future from the rock chips. Jay, told me to just treat the powdercoat base as "epoxy primer" and finish accordingly.

In conclusion, the cost of materials was staggering to me, $850 for a gallon of dark red, and then they charged me $12 more FOR A GALLON OF WATER (lol). I spent almost $4K in materials to get it from rusted new steel...........to top coat. None of this was in labor, I did everything in my driveway, and only "hired out" the actual final spraying. I have a high respect for what custom painters do and the effort it takes them to turn out a glass smooth paint job.

Now as the instructions say, it time to SIMPLY REASSEMBLE! LOL