Thread: brass welding brazing

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Problem. I was told brazing was a big no, no for doing body work. I was told that no mater how you prep it it will come through. Now I have not kept up with this as I arc, mig or gas weld in parts. A friend of mine called me over to look at a 68 mustang his dad was redoing(rust repair) he had brazed in everything. patch panels floors and the front core support. Is there a way to finish this so paint will stick and stay over brazing??? I have seen it lift before on other jobs people have done.

back when i started body work we brazed every thing some stuff gas welded with steel filler rod .both my cars have brass body joints were i leaded them thats been 30 years its still holding good .so it can be done but steel filler rods better .we use to sand blast the joint or use a wire wheel called a mule skinner .joints must be clean clean clean with no fluxs thats whats starts thing going side ways

I know lead works I did my 38 chevy with lead.. So if he leads over the brass it will hold. I heard filler would pop off???
Thanks

What Pat said is true when it comes to the flux. That's the main culprit when it comes to bonding. I have always bead or sand blasted the joints of any brazing and then there are usually no problems.

Originally Posted by cffisher

I know lead works I did my 38 chevy with lead.. So if he leads over the brass it will hold. I heard filler would pop off???
Thanks

well yes long as it tinned lead bonds very good to brass .we used brass for many years for lite body metal .thing i would never try now. still think about them days with alot of wet rags to cool steel .ground glass filler were used alot if joint was brass . i would not use lead now for the brass joint . glass filler works good and your do not have to worry about the lead tinner acid working its way up threw finsh

Throw the brass away and use silicon bronze . Still a low melting point and no problems with filler going over it .