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07-16-2012 12:36 PM #61
Roger I was told the same thing, and to use epoxy primer if you aren't able to top coat right away." "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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09-12-2012 04:52 AM #62
I just got done finishing the my 1950 Ply wagon in epoxy primer. When I got the car 5 yrs. ago, the body was largely bare metal. I did the necessary welding of new metal (lots of it) and then procedded to apply an good coat of PPG epoxy primer.
I finished all the bondo work and the glazing to fill in minor pin holes. This was 4 yrs. ago. Now advance to present day.
After taking the time to get the chassis done and other things, I got back to to the body. I took more time to finish sand and any bare metal was shot with epoxy primer. I sanded the whole car and existing parts with 80 grit, then 180, then 320. Then applied 3 good coats of Dupont filler primer which filled in any remaining scratches.
I let that dry for one full day then wet sanded the whole car again in 400 wet to remove all orange peel. Now i got it all re- taped up and applied the final coat of Dupont epoxy primer. The filler primer must be top coated with an epoxy as it will wick moisture if driven in all types of weather.
I am driving the car in primer for a year before I put it in color to make sure if there are any problems down the road, they can be fixed without screwing up a nice paint job.
Some may think this is alot of un-necessary time and work but anyone who has done paint and body knows that a paint job is 95% preparation and 5% shooting the paint. That goes for primer or final coats.
Also besides the time involved which I figured to be about 70-80 hrs of prep work, I also spent about $900 on materials.
$400 of that was just in the past week for filler primer at $225 a gal + activator and $180 for a gal. of epoxy primer and hardener. Not to mention the cost of sandpaper, bondo, glazing putty,welding wire, etc.
I have an good friend who has a custom paint shop in my area. His work is beyond nice and he points me in the direction of how his shop would do the work I am doing.
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09-12-2012 05:42 AM #63
i always dry sand filler . any polyester will suck up moisture.
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09-12-2012 10:39 AM #64
Sanding polyester primer wet is not a problem due to the fact that it is put over an already hardened epoxy primer. The moisture of wet sanding won't penetrate and even it it does, the epoxy is a barrier against the moisture already.
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09-12-2012 12:01 PM #65
polyester primer is nothing more than sprayable filler . it will absorb moisture just like filler will. even sanded fiberglass will absorb moisture. if you do wet sand it let it have time to dry out. it's not so much moisture getting to the metal as it is trapping moisture in the filler or primer.
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09-12-2012 01:09 PM #66
If you get the body slick enuff, can't you just roll it on with a Walmart roller and pan?.
" I'm drinking from my saucer, 'cause my cup is overflowed ! "
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09-12-2012 02:55 PM #67
That shop towel lookCharlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
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09-12-2012 03:37 PM #68
cool, looks like a bunch of nekkid wimmin'.
" I'm drinking from my saucer, 'cause my cup is overflowed ! "
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09-12-2012 03:39 PM #69
Charlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
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09-12-2012 04:13 PM #70
No women there, it's galloping horses!!!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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09-17-2012 07:13 PM #71
Hot rod mag several years ago, did a article on a roll-on rustoleum paint job. It was extremely labor intensive, but extremely cheap and end product looked pretty good.
( in response to the joking comment about rolling on paint ).
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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12-06-2012 04:01 PM #72
Amen to that, though I can understand it with some peoples show vehicles that I've seen. I would LOVE to go get myself a paint job done in a house of color paint or some of those PPG hughes, THAT I can understand paying a good amount of money to have done. I can also understand someone bringing in a rust bucket and needing a ton of body work, I can see this running 20 grand.
I cannot myself justify spending probably anymore than 5k on my paint job, I dont need awesome paint though I would like it. Im fairly young (28) and do not make a ton of money, its this kind of thing that scares my generation away from this hobby. That and they do not know much about it, hence the reason you see a kid with 15k in his motor in an eclipse, a car thats now worth 1000 bucks.
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12-06-2012 08:12 PM #73
I'm totally floored at the prices you guys are talking about. The last car I painted was my 1970 Caprice in 1976, switched from gold to burgany, did all the jambs etc., took 1 1/2 gallons of Laquer.... Total price for paint was $55.00
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12-06-2012 08:24 PM #74
I was talking to a friend yesterday who had just finished wet sanding and polishing a Falcon for a buddy. The guy had spent several months getting everything straight, and then filling & sanding to perfection. They hauled it to a local truck shop on a weekend where one of the guys had permission to use the paint booth. He said that the guy spent $3,800 in materials - filler, tape, masking paper, sand paper, primer and paint. That's just materials, no labor as his friends donated their time to pay back old favors.Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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12-06-2012 08:43 PM #75
wonder why rat rods are popular???????????????????/
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