Thread: applying BC/CC and door jambs etc

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Originally Posted by randyr

Thanks Pat! I've painted a couple of cars as a hobbyist but it's been a while. My most recent painting experience was shooting epoxy primer on my 37 Ford fenders. Needless to say, I don't know all the tricks of the trade.....
I appreciate the visuals!! Perhaps others do too.
Thanks!!

Yep, the visual, plus your last explanation about "...rolling up the tape" made it "click". I was scratching my head in confusion before that! Thanks for explaining!

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

...i tape off the out side of car when i cut jams in to keep the the clear from lifitng as the base over lap could pull up fresh clear...

I think I got it on your second post. Question though... where do you start to tape the outside. do you tape it right at the body line between the exterior of the car and the jamb or do you start the tape more towards the jamb side of the body line? And, is there any concern about the base overlap on the jamb (when you paint the exterior) lifting the clear on the jamb?

Thanks for everyone's input. This is really helpful. I'm about ready to paint my current project and this will be my first attempt at a base coat / clear coat paint job.

Originally Posted by herbet99

I think I got it on your second post. Question though... where do you start to tape the outside. do you tape it right at the body line between the exterior of the car and the jamb or do you start the tape more towards the jamb side of the body line? And, is there any concern about the base overlap on the jamb (when you paint the exterior) lifting the clear on the jamb?

Thanks for everyone's input. This is really helpful. I'm about ready to paint my current project and this will be my first attempt at a base coat / clear coat paint job.

well if the car is going to be sealed over all ?some sealer will not sand very good to get the over spray off when you shoot the jams . many times i did not seal cars i would tint my primer then wet sand with 600 gray back 3m sand paper .gold back 3m 600 is more like 400 gray back you want less grit for final finish. you do not need many coats of clear in the jam.s so this cut down on build up .you just want to keep over lap of clear off the out side of the car, the brake off were you tape the out side of car can be fine tuned after good and dry by sanding . on some car s we tape the hole door surround off and take the door latch off and work in panting the jams .i did do many this way i would cut the jams in just after i sealed the out side of car . spray the clear coat on jams on last coat i would shoot the jams first them coat the out side of car so over spray would melt in .. this is way ..... i do not post much on painting . i did it for many years i loved to do metal work i told my helpers painting was to get paid for the job but there still is nothing better then a fresh black paint job ....had some very good helpers over the years .but to put it in print less your standing next to the guy doing it can be very trying .

Originally Posted by herbet99

Thanks for everyone's input. This is really helpful. I'm about ready to paint my current project and this will be my first attempt at a base coat / clear coat paint job.

Not to stir the pot, but have you considered doing what my paint guy calls "sugar coat"? You shoot single stage to get coverage, but on the final coat you mix in 50% clear with your color. The pigment tends to settle, giving you the depth of clear without the extra coat. You might talk to your paint supplier about the process. Several of the custom painters around here use the approach, it's what I did on my chassis, and is what I will use on the body when I finally do it.

Originally Posted by rspears

Not to stir the pot, but have you considered doing what my paint guy calls "sugar coat"?...

Interesting idea... but I'm not sure how that alleviates the need to do the jambs separately.

And would that prohibit you from color sanding? which I'm assuming is one of the benefits of doing a two stage paint job.

I may use a slight metallic paint. Not alot of flake but something like a modern production car.

50/50 can be done with single stage with the clear not worth the time as your going to walk around the car till it is covered .then just building up coats that are tinted with color my feeling that your not going to gain any thing just a harder finsh to fix down the road . i would never do it on black paint but we did that 30 years ago on metallcis jobs in enamels and lacquer .i used this 50/50 mix i made up for blending clear for solid color i do not under stand why they call it sugar coat ? what your doing is making it a candy . i done many single stage paint jobs were we would put down 4 coats then wet sand it with 1000or 1200.then wet it up by shooting two coats down . clear can change color up single stange paint just so you know . the way i like to do them is to shoot the car in single stage sand them flat and put clear on them or more color . i done show cars in black were many have asked how many coats of clear .black i do not care to clear less it is a driver or custom graphics were you need to burry a edged

Thanks all, I'm planning a Brittany Blue color so I think I will stick with my plan to do a two stage job. I guess I'll see how it goes.