Thread: Lets talk paint product options 32 ford

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Okay my 32 ford is in 6-8 year old DP90 (not LF) and it will be time soon to get it all lined out and in color. The body work is 95% ish

I currently have the following plan of attack.

Scuff up current DP90
Reshoot a fresh coat of DP90LF
Shoot a few coats of Slick Sand and block with 80
Shoot a few more coats of slick sand and block with 180
Shoot a few coats of 2k and block out <<<< Not sure on which 2K need advice
Seal with reduced DP90LF
Shoot PPG DBC Base
Shoot PPG 2002 Clear
ETC....

The problem comes in with the 2K. I'm not a fan of K36s performance (mainly shrink back) and price

Sooooooo what would you pros suggest?

This will be done in a newer down draft at a friends shop. I will be doing 99% of the work with guidance from him and I will be pulling the trigger on all stages.


This will be my 3rd full job, but have painted piles of other parts.

Thanks All

i do not care much for dp as a sealer for a show quilty job .fine for production. use many gallons of the stuff . the DBC and the 2002 clear is ok . as for the 2K s primer i used a heavy filler like the k 200 sanded up to 180 wet to 220 grit . last 3 coats then move up to K 36 to finale and colored it if was a poor cover color. wet sand the 36 up to from 320 up to 600 gray back3M wet paper . painted on the 36s no sealer .did many show finishs this way but that been over 10years not sure if ppg still has K36? i move to martin senior primers for a sealer primer .i can go in this in to detail on evey step i have older paint jobs out there that have had very good hold out one is over 20 years old and is a black car . if you want you can PM me and i help much as i can .i had to hang my paint gun up 15 years ago for heath reasons so i not up to speed on some up the new product lines

Yeah they still have K36. I wont be using it as I have had a few issues with it. Why do you say not to use the DP as a sealer?

They don't make 2002 clear anymore, if you find some it's someone's old stock. New numbers are 3000 and 4000, and it's more expensive then 2002 was! Might as well switch over to House of Kolor, better product and now it's price comparable with PPG! TCP Global and Stevenson's Paint and Supply are a couple of good sources. Depending on what color you're shooting, the right shade of sealer is important to make the color come out right...

DP for use as a sealer if any trash gets in it it,s a bitch to sand . if you want a flat finish i never like it for any kind of hold out of solvent it has zip solvents will move threw it as well . as issues with 36 never had hold out issues with it as a sealer primer . i never try to bury some thing were body filler should of been used. i never covered the 36s with icing filler then re coat it with 36 s when the filling should of been at the base of you prep work less if your looking for solvent driving down and then shrinking back up .like i did say i went to MS primer for a sealer /primer . there were many mixed systems i used in the shops i worked it they were marson primers or rubber seal ,,,,or??? clears like sun glow .matrix they all ways said like PPG XYandZ were many times the ppg did have better hold out .when i painted planes all the glass parts and with air cooled 540 cid engine hold out was good for the heat the very thin glass cowling parts had to deal with

spi epoxy for your base . forget the k36 . it was 70's technology . i use no urethane or polyester primers . i do my build with epoxy then when ready for color i start with a reduced coat of epoxy. ppg for colors and spi universal clear.

really 70s we used DZ primer and featherfill 70early 80s . fill K 200 was not out till mild 80s k36 was after that less you saying all urethane or polyesters primers are dated. i think most polyurethane and have a hirer heat hold out in air cure then epoxy??

urethane and polyester both react to uv rays. swell and shrink . in the ladder of resins epoxy is at the top . once cured it will not react to uv. there is nothing better for corrosion protection and adhesion than epoxy. but all epoxies are not the same. dplf is useless .
i have done epoxy only since 05 . urethane primer is ok for collision work but as a high build it creates too many problems .

the hold out with some of the k200s was good for me sure there is better. most of the time there is. as epoxides can be cross linked to poly urethanes Aliphatic s epoxy what i used to paint my machines in the shop and cross link to many other make ups . i have had many job s i done with the k200s but i seen it in the wrong hands in production shops try to hind a 40 grit mark i will shink up . most all the time i never tried to fill up poor work when another coat of fill would do the job. many times i would let the sun bake the primer with it cut open . i have to watch out for some epoxy the dust i have a lung/ skin sensitive from it

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

They don't make 2002 clear anymore, if you find some it's someone's old stock. New numbers are 3000 and 4000, and it's more expensive then 2002 was! Might as well switch over to House of Kolor, better product and now it's price comparable with PPG! TCP Global and Stevenson's Paint and Supply are a couple of good sources. Depending on what color you're shooting, the right shade of sealer is important to make the color come out right...

You are right about being old stock... Its my stock that has been temp controlled since last year and I just shot a column today with it without issue and the bike I painted came out killer as well. So no I wont be changing clears especially on a project like this. I need to stay with things that I'm confident in.

Sealer color is rather a moot point as the paint color is black

Originally Posted by shine

urethane and polyester both react to uv rays. swell and shrink . in the ladder of resins epoxy is at the top . once cured it will not react to uv. there is nothing better for corrosion protection and adhesion than epoxy. but all epoxies are not the same. dplf is useless .
i have done epoxy only since 05 . urethane primer is ok for collision work but as a high build it creates too many problems .

Since you say DPLF is crap you want to give a suggestion of what to use?

the 2002 clear will last for a very long time it.s the head space in the can of hardener air/moister kills the hardener no fun when you find this out the hard way .paint i all ways moved it to a smaller can to keep air out

when they changed the makeup of dp is when i quit using it. i use SPI products now. the epoxy is outstanding. sands well and is a good build. 72 hr pot life covered. you can save what is left and add it to a new mix the next day , clock starts over. between the dplf and the clears available i was ready to retire. i found spi and have not looked back. the clears buff great and have no die back . i did the 57 vette and waited from dec to march to buff . buffs same as next day almost.
i just got tired of trying to do custom work with products designed for collision work . too much effort and limitations .
this is a site for spi users. it is not part of spi but barry post there .

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a shot of mig gas in the hardener will help save it. it is the moisture that kills it .

Originally Posted by sprayed99

You are right about being old stock... Its my stock that has been temp controlled since last year and I just shot a column today with it without issue and the bike I painted came out killer as well. So no I wont be changing clears especially on a project like this. I need to stay with things that I'm confident in.

Sealer color is rather a moot point as the paint color is black

Might have mentioned that in you 1st post, I wouldn't have wasted your time!!!!

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Might have mentioned that in you 1st post, I wouldn't have wasted your time!!!!

Sorry didn't think of it at the time... no reason for butt hurtness.