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06-23-2004 08:10 PM #1
approxamently How much does paint cost?
How much does fairly good but not excelent paint cost? Color being black. My uncle gave me an estamate of $400 a gallon but, that don't seem right. I was going to just spray the car with rattle can primer cause I was figuering on my uncles estimate but, I got thinking about it and that dont seem right.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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06-23-2004 08:21 PM #2
Really depends on the product.............PPG has a line called OMNI ( comes in Base coat/Clear coat and single stage ) and is way Cheaper then the DCC Concept single stage -DBU-DBU Deltron Base Profesional Line.
I would have to call my jobber to make sure, but I would guess 1 Gallon of color (Black), catylist and reducer(single stage) would be around 150$ to 400$ at the most depending on what way you go BC/CC or Single stage.
SprayTech
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06-23-2004 08:31 PM #3
Thanks spray, I may be able to afford $150 for paint. Gots about $450 left for the car and gotta buy 2 tires and about $30 in exzaust. My dad recomended using hardener so it hardened faster and diddn't run.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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06-23-2004 08:34 PM #4
Black is the cheapest for color, so I'd say 80.00 a ga. for the paint,(enamel) 35.00 for the reducer, 25.00 for the hardner, 2 bucks for the tack cloth, 28.00 for the cleaner(wash), then you may want to mask it off, so figger tape & paper another 25.00, oh and you may want to sand it too, so that's another 65.00 in sand paper....and fisheye additive is about 10.00, what did I forget spray?
Oh yeah, you'll need some sealer that's gonna be 85.00 a gallon, and your gonig to want to clean your gun after your done so thats another 24.00 for the thinner for that.
That's for a cheap paint job.....you sand & paint.
Bondo & primer are extra.Jim
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06-23-2004 08:54 PM #5
Wax and Grease remover PPG's DX330 or more aggresive DX440,
But I would Never reccomend Fish Eye eliminator, as once you use it, its in your gun forever and will have to use it for every paint job you spray using that gun. I havent used that stuff in 20 years, its bad news!!!!!
Just make sure your vehicle is clean as hell before spraying color
And a 3m Desposable Charcoal Respirator , as if you use the catylist(hardner) it has Isocyinates, and will wreck havok with your lungs!!! They arent real expensive around 40 bucks i think , they come in a reuseable ZipLock bag.
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06-23-2004 09:02 PM #6
Originally posted by SprayTech
Wax and Grease remover PPG's DX330 or more aggresive DX440,
But I would Never reccomend Fish Eye eliminator, as once you use it, its in your gun forever and will have to use it for every paint job you spray using that gun. I havent used that stuff in 20 years, its bad news!!!!!
Just make sure your vehicle is clean as hell before spraying color
And a 3m Desposable Charcoal Respirator , as if you use the catylist(hardner) it has Isocyinates, and will wreck havok with your lungs!!! They arent real expensive around 40 bucks i think , they come in a reuseable ZipLock bag.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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06-24-2004 05:42 AM #7
First off is the car ready for paint?
With bondo dust over everything it sounds like it needs primed first.
The car should Be washed with Hot water and a mild soap then rinsed , then it should be wiped down with wax and grease remover,before any body work is done .
This helps insure that you dont have contamination problems down the road.
Your bondo work can also be wiped down with another wipe down of wax and grease remover before being primed. just blow it dry with your air hose. Then you can spray your primer .
SprayTech
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06-24-2004 09:55 AM #8
The car is not yet ready for paint, I still have to sand some bondo and then sand all the surface rust down and then I can wash it like you said then, it could be primmed.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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06-24-2004 04:57 PM #9
Matt,
I think you Miss-Understood me, Its best that you wash the car with hot water Before anything is ever done with the car to make sure all is clean.
But you can still wipe your areas with the wax and grease remover then prime, But do not wash it with water now that you have started the body work , its to late for that.
After its all primed up and for final finish sanding you can water sand it with a hint of soap in the water and that will help clean the surface as you prep it for paint.
I think it might be in order to get a step by step process for you guys wanting to try your hand with Body and Paint work.
SprayTech
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06-24-2004 05:04 PM #10
Originally posted by SprayTech
Matt,
I think you Miss-Understood me, Its best that you wash the car with hot water Before anything is ever done with the car to make sure all is clean.
But you can still wipe your areas with the wax and grease remover then prime, But do not wash it with water now that you have started the body work , its to late for that.
After its all primed up and for final finish sanding you can water sand it with a hint of soap in the water and that will help clean the surface as you prep it for paint.
I think it might be in order to get a step by step process for you guys wanting to try your hand with Body and Paint work.
SprayTechYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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07-01-2004 07:42 AM #11
over here your looking about £20 quid a litre for paint = $36 a litre
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07-10-2004 11:59 PM #12
hey hows it going. honestly black is probably the cheapest color to go with. The problem is that it reveals alot of body flaws. If you paint it black go with a single stage by omni. a gallon of sealer is not really needed. A quart of sealer should do it if deep scratches are remove during wet sand of the primer. You would only need the sealer for spots wher you sanded hrogh the primer a couple of quick coats over body should do, depending on how good it is wet sanded. Guide coat over the primer would help alot to show low spots and deep scratches
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